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Mimic Amigurumi Pattern

Mimic Amigurumi Pattern
3.9★ Rating
5-7 Hours Time Needed
4.1K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

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Whimsical Buddy

Playful characters full of personality, designed to spark imagination and become cherished playtime favorites.

About This Mimic Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern creates a tiny crochet Mimic chest with a hinged lid, teeth, tongue, keyhole and an eyeball that flips up. You will make flat chest panels, a curved top, a mouth bucket, teeth strip and decorative trim before assembling with optional plastic canvas for structure. The design uses worsted weight yarn and standard crochet stitches, with helpful notes for clean borders and assembly.

Mimic Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Perfect for crafters who like small sewn projects and character details. The finished mimic is great as a dice holder, desk ornament, or gift for tabletop gamers.

Why You'll Love This Mimic Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it combines simple crochet rectangles with playful character details that bring the mimic to life. I enjoy the way the two-round border (A and B) creates a neat framed edge that makes assembly tidy and satisfying. The mouth bucket and teeth strip hide a lot of shaping lessons in an approachable way, so every maker learns something new. I also love adding optional details like plastic canvas or wire braces — small changes make big personality differences.

Mimic Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Mimic Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Mimic Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Mimic Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how easy it is to change the personality of this mimic by switching colors — try muted browns and moss greens for an aged look, or bright jewel tones for a playful fantasy chest.

If you want a larger mimic, use bulky yarn and a larger hook; this will give you a chunkier, more dramatic chest that still uses the same construction logic.

For a tiny keychain version, use sport weight yarn and a 2.5mm hook, reduce panel counts or make the top smaller, and skip the plastic canvas to keep weight low.

I often swap the eyeball for a safety eye or a sewn-on button to vary the expression; a button gives a vintage feel while embroidery looks more organic.

Try adding a tiny crocheted coin or gem sewn to the lid to make the chest look like it is guarding a treasure — little props really sell the character.

Use wire inside the long brace to make the eye posable; bend two prongs and hide them when sewing the brace down for a clean finish.

Make the teeth in a different color (ivory or off-white) for a more natural gumline, or use sparkly yarn for a whimsical effect.

Customize the trim width by using two rounds of thinner yarn or one round of bulky yarn to change the chest’s silhouette.

I sometimes embroider small patterns or runes onto the outside panels before attaching the trim for an enchanted artifact look.

Finally, swap materials: try felt for the tongue or small beads along the brace for extra texture and interest.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping the stitch marker when working rounds in the trim can cause you to lose the start point; use a marker and move it after each round to stay oriented. ✗ Working the border rounds too tightly will draw the fabric in and warp the rectangle; keep slst rounds loose and use a consistent, relaxed tension. ✗ Failing to count chain stitches at corners leads to mismatched corner spaces and uneven increases; count ch1 or ch2 corner spaces carefully before starting the border rounds. ✗ Overstuffing the eyeball or top will distort the shape and make closing difficult; stuff the eyeball sparingly and add just enough to hold shape. ✗ Sewing through the wrong loops (front instead of BLO) can hide seam structure; follow the instruction to sew BLO to BLO or BLO to canvas as specified for a clean finish.

Mimic Amigurumi Pattern

This playful Mimic chest amigurumi pattern teaches you how to crochet a tiny treasure with a hinged, toothy mouth, keyhole and eyeball. You will build the chest panels, trim, tongue, teeth, and assemble using clear step-by-step instructions. The pattern uses worsted weight yarn and simple shaping to create a charming, poseable miniature mimic for games or display. Ideal for crocheters who enjoy small sewn assemblies and fun finishing details.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Mimic Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Worsted Weight yarn (#4) Brown - approximately 50 yd for chest pieces
  • 02
    Gold (trim) - approximately 40 yd for trim and accents
  • 03
    Dark Red (mouth) - approximately 62 yd for mouth lining and top interior
  • 04
    Pink (tongue) - approximately 11 yd for the tongue
  • 05
    White - scrap amount for teeth and eyeball
  • 06
    Black - scrap amount for pupil and small details
  • 07
    Small amounts of silver/green/purple noted in palette are optional accent scraps

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size 3.75mm (F)
  • 02
    Worsted Weight (4) yarn in listed colors
  • 03
    Pinch of stuffing (for eyeball only)
  • 04
    7-count plastic canvas (1 sheet) - optional for structure
  • 05
    Sewing thread (any color)
  • 06
    Small buttons (optional)
  • 07
    10~14g wire (optional instead of buttons)
  • 08
    Scissors
  • 09
    Yarn needle for sewing and weaving ends
  • 10
    Stitch markers or safety pins
  • 11
    Pins for assembly

Progress Tracker

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— Color Palette :

Info :

Chest: Brown 50 yd. Trim: Gold 40 yd. Mouth: Dark Red 62 yd. Tongue: Pink 11 yd. Teeth: White. Scrap amount of black and white for eye/teeth.

— Materials :

Info :

3.75mm (F) hook. Worsted Weight (4) yarn. Pinch of stuffing. Optional: 7-count plastic canvas (1 sheet). Sewing thread (any color). Small buttons or 10~14g wire.

— Stitches Used (US Terms) :

Info :

magic ring. slst: slip stitch. sc: single crochet. inc: single crochet increase. dec: single crochet decrease. dec: single crochet decrease. Picot: Ch2, slst in first ch made. BLO: Back loops only. FLO: Front loops only. hdc: half double crochet. dc: double crochet.

— Example (F) :

Round r1 :

sc 6 in magic ring (6)

Round r2 :

*inc* (12)

Round r3 :

*1sc, inc* (18)

Round r4 :

*2sc, inc* (24)

Round r5 :

*3sc, inc* (30)

Round r7a :

slst around (30)

Round r7b :

sc around (30)

Round r8 :

2sc, inc, *4sc, inc* x5, 2sc (36)

Round r9 :

5sc, {sc, hdc, sc}, 30sc (38)

Info :

Repeat directions *in asterisks* to the end of the round. When working in multiples of 6, it will be repeated 6 times. Stitches grouped in brackets all go into the same space. Cleanly changing to a new color takes two rounds (A then B) so rounds still count easily.

— Short Side x2 :

Info :

Start with Chest

Round r1 :

Ch10. sc across (9)

Round r2-8 :

Ch1, turn. sc across (9)

Info :

Finish off, turn, reattach at corner with Trim. (BLO). Insert hook, pull up loop, ch1 to start. (ch1 counts as the first slst of r9a). Ch2 at the corners count as one space. (Increases land in these)

Round r9a :

BLO: slst around, ch2 at corners (38)

Round r9b :

BLO: sc around, inc in ch2 spaces (42)

Info :

Finish off, leave a Trim tail for sewing.

— Tips for clean borders :

Infos :

The border takes two rounds: Prep round A (slst around, ch2 at corners), Border round B (sc around, inc in the ch2 spaces). Keep your slst's loose or it will drawstring and warp rectangles. When working the A round: Catch a single loop to slst in. Don’t work too deeply into the fabric. The number of slst’s along the unfinished side will match the number of rows in the shape. Ch2 at each corner.

Info :

When working the B round: Work in the BLO of Trim, plus the single loop of Chest. (The inc's go into the ch2 space, so BLO doesn’t apply to them.) Finish off with an invisible finish for best results. We’re going to border every piece like this; refer back if you need to.

— Long Side x2 :

Info :

Start with Chest

Round r1 :

Ch13. sc across (12)

Round r2-8 :

Ch1, turn. sc across (12)

Round r9a :

BLO: slst around, ch2 at corners (44)

Round r9b :

BLO: sc around, inc in ch2 spaces (48)

Info :

Finish off, leave a tail for sewing.

— Bottom x1 :

Info :

Start with Chest

Round r1 :

Ch13. sc across (12)

Round r2-9 :

Ch1, turn. sc across (12)

Round r10a :

BLO: slst around, ch2 at corners (46)

Round r10b :

BLO: sc around, inc in ch2 spaces (50)

Info :

Finish off, leave a tail for sewing. Mark this piece so you remember it’s the bottom (it’s very similar to the long sides).

— Top x1 :

Info :

Start with Chest

Round r1 :

Ch13. sc across (12)

Round r2-16 :

Ch1, turn. sc across (12)

Round r17a :

BLO: slst around, ch2 at corners (60)

Round r17b :

BLO: sc around, inc in ch2 spaces (64)

Info :

Finish off, leave a tail for sewing.

— Top Side x2 :

Info :

Start with Chest

Round r1 :

3sc in magic ring (3)

Round r2 :

*inc* (6)

Round r3 :

*1sc, inc* (9)

Round r4 :

*2sc, inc* (12)

Round r5 :

*3sc, inc* (15)

Info :

Turn, reattach with Trim. Use a long starter tail to do r6a. Then, use the master strand to do r6b without turning.

Round r6a :

BLO slst across (15)

Round r6b :

BLO *4sc, inc* (18)

Info :

Finish off, leave a tail for sewing.

— Handles x2 :

Info :

Start with Trim

Round r1 :

Ch 8. Start in second ch from hook: 2sc, inc, inc, inc, 2sc (10)

Info :

Finish off, leave a tail for sewing.

— Mouth Top :

Info :

Start with Mouth

Round r1 :

Ch14. sc across (13)

Round r2-15 :

sc across (13)

Info :

Finish off. Reattach and work along raw edge. (There’s no row of slst’s, and you don’t have to keep it clean because it’s the same color.)

Info :

Sides:

Round r1 :

Sc across (15). ch1, turn

Round r2 :

Dec, dec, dec, 3sc, dec, dec, dec (9)

Round r3 :

Dec, dec, 1sc, dec, dec (5)

Round r4 :

Dec, 1sc, dec (3)

Info :

Finish off. Repeat Sides r1-4 on the other raw edge. The shape will curl like a boat, to fit inside the top. Leave one tail for sewing.

— Long Brace :

Info :

Make with Trim

Round r1 :

Ch32. Start in second ch from hook: 30sc, {1sc, ch1, 1sc, ch1, 1sc} in last ch. Continue along other side of chain: 30sc

Info :

Finish off, leave a tail for sewing. Optional: If you want to use wire to flip the eye up (instead of a button), cut a short piece of wire and bend it to fit the shape. On r1, start sc’ing around wire at about 18 sc in. Continue sc’ing around the wire to the same spot on the other side. Bend two short prongs out at 90° to plug into the top. Trim excess.

— Mouth Bottom :

Info :

Start with Mouth

Round r1 :

Ch5. Start in third chain from hook: 2sc, {3sc} in last ch, continue around other side of ch 2sc, {3sc} in ch2 space (10)

Round r2 :

2sc, inc, inc, inc, 2sc, inc, inc, inc (16)

Round r3 :

3sc, inc, inc, 1sc, inc, inc, 3sc, inc, inc, 1sc, inc, inc (24)

Round r4 :

4sc, inc, inc, 3sc, inc, inc, inc, 5sc, inc, inc, 3sc, inc, inc, 1sc (32)

Round r5 :

5sc, inc, inc, 5sc, inc, inc, inc, 7sc, inc, inc, inc, 5sc, inc, inc, 2sc (40)

Round r6-9 :

sc around (40)

Round r10 :

6sc, inc, inc, 7sc, inc, inc, 9sc, inc, inc, inc, 7sc, inc, inc, inc, 3sc (48)

Round r11-15 :

sc around (48)

Round r16 :

BLO: 11hdc, {1hdc, ch1, 1hdc}, 9hdc, {1hdc, ch1, 1hdc}, 13hdc, {1hdc, ch1, 1hdc}, 9hdc, {1hdc, ch1, 1hdc}, 2hdc

Info :

The ch1’s of r16 are the corners. Finish off, leave a tail for sewing. This piece is wrong-side-out so inside you see the right side.

— Keyhole :

Round r1 :

6sc in magic ring (6)

Round r2 :

*inc* (12)

Round r3 :

*1sc, inc* (18)

Info :

Finish off, leave a tail for sewing. Optional: If you want a button flip, make a small secure loop when weaving tails. With black, embroider a keyhole (messy back is okay).

— Eyeball :

Round r1 :

5sc in magic ring (5)

Round r2 :

*inc* (10)

Info :

Cut yarn, pull tail through, do an invisible finish. Change to white, leave a starting tail to embroider shine.

Round r3a :

BLO slst around (10)

Round r3b :

*1sc, inc* - work through BLO of both colors (15)

Info :

Finish off, leave a tail to sew to keyhole. With a strand of black, embroider a slit pupil with 3 passes. Use white tail to embroider a shine (1 pass). Knot and trim tails. Sew to back of Keyhole through BLO of White into back bars of Trim. Stuff before closing. (This is the only piece with stuffing.)

— Invisible Finish :

Infos :

Skip first stitch. Insert hook under both loops from the back. Pull tail through. Insert hook under BLO of last stitch of the round from the back. Pull tail through. Adjust tension as needed for a seamless finish.

— Teeth :

Info :

Start with White

Round r1 :

Ch 22. Start in second ch from hook. slst, *[ch3, slst, 1sc], slst in next, slst in next*

Info :

Finish off. Change to Tongue. Work r2 across other side as shown. Pull up a loop here to start.

Round r2 :

*BLO slst, slst, sc*, slst, slst, slst (22)

Info :

The sc’s here are worked around the entire piece, going between the teeth. They do not occupy a loop of the starting chain. Finish off, leave a tail for sewing. Pin and sew the tongue to the back of the mouth. Pin and sew teeth strip along the mouth/head seam. Sew through BLO of the gums.

— Tongue :

Info :

Make with Tongue

Round r1 :

Ch32. Start in second ch from hook: 30sc, {1sc, ch2, 1sc} in last ch. Continue along other side of chain: 30sc. ch1, turn.

Round r2 :

31sc, {4sc} in ch2 space. Continue along other side of chain: 31sc

Info :

Finish off, leave a Tongue tail for sewing. With Mouth, reattach in center at bottom. Slst going through the tongue. Work up to the tip. Finish off.

— Bottom Assembly :

Infos :

For a strong structure, use 7-count plastic canvas on the back of every chest piece (optional - without it the chest will be squishy). It comes in stiff and flexible versions; flexible is better for curved top. Trace canvas to fit within back bars of stitches for seam allowance. Measurements (holes length x height) used: Short sides x2: 20 x 16. Long sides x2: 25 x 16. Bottom x1: 25 x 18. Sewing thread is easier for attaching canvas. Lay pieces out in formation, use safety pins or stitch markers to hold them while sewing. Sew BLO to BLO with a whip stitch.

— Top Assembly :

Infos :

Continue with the plastic canvas sewing. Measurements used: Top sides x2: a semi circle 17 wide and 8 tall. Top x1: 25 x 26. The top is made differently to curve; the plastic piece will appear short when laid flat. Start by sewing down one short edge. Use a hair tie or yarn to hold the shape in a bend while you sew the rest. Safety pin the sides to the top. Sew BLO to BLO with a whip stitch. Pin the mouth boat into the top of the chest. Sew together BLO to back bars or BLO to plastic canvas.

— Mouth Assembly :

Infos :

Center the teeth and pin them in place. Sew them to the mouth bucket through the BLO of the gums to the BLO of the mouth. Mark the back center of the mouth, then pull it out to sew the tongue in. Push back inside. Sit the mouth inside the box; mush and flatten the bottom pressing it into the box. Sew up the sides going through BLO to BLO.

— Chest Assembly :

Infos :

Use safety pins or round markers to line the top up with a long side. Sew BLO to BLO on the one hinged side. Pin the long brace over the chest and sew through the back bars onto the chest. If using wire in your brace plug the bent ends into the chest between the fabric and the plastic and internally bend them. Sew the Keyhole/Eyeball to the end of the Brace so the Keyhole flips up to reveal the Eyeball. If using buttons: flip the Eyeball up and mark where the loop lands. Sew a button here and 4-6 more buttons along the brace for decorative camouflage. Finish off and weave in ends.

Assembly Instructions

  • For a strong structure, attach 7-count plastic canvas to the back of each chest panel, keeping the canvas inside the back bars of stitches and sewing through the canvas holes with sewing thread.
  • Lay the chest pieces out in formation (short, long, bottom) and whip stitch BLO to BLO to form the box sides, using pins to keep corners aligned.
  • Sew the mouth boat into the curved top: pin the curved mouth into the top, then sew the mouth's BLO to the top's BLO so it sits flush and can open inside the chest.
  • Center and pin the teeth along the mouth/head seam, then sew the teeth through the BLO of the gums to the BLO of the mouth bucket for a secure attachment.
  • Pin and sew the long brace over the chest top, inserting optional wire ends into the chest and sewing the brace through back bars; attach the keyhole/eyeball at the brace end so it flips up to reveal the eyeball.
  • Attach handles to the short sides and sew trim around all edges, finishing with an invisible finish for a seamless border.

Important Notes

  • 💡Use stitch markers or safety pins to keep track of seam alignment and corners before sewing for a cleaner finish.
  • 💡Work the slst border round loosely to avoid drawstringing and ensure the rectangle maintains its shape.
  • 💡Pin all pieces in place before sewing to confirm placement of mouth, teeth, tongue and brace for symmetry and function.
  • 💡When adding plastic canvas, keep it within the back bars for a neat seam allowance and easier sewing through the canvas holes.

This playful Mimic chest is a tiny, whimsical companion perfect for gamers and makers alike. The hinged mouth, teeth, tongue and flip-up eyeball add personality and charm to any shelf or game table. Make it as a gift or to store dice and small treasures — it’s sure to spark smiles and curiosity. 🧶🧵

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FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The finished mimic chest measures approximately the size of a small dice box when using worsted weight yarn and the recommended hook; dimensions vary with yarn and tension.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can use different yarn weights but this will change the final size; adjust hook size accordingly and expect to re-calculate plastic canvas hole counts if used.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate, so basic knowledge of single crochet, increases, decreases, and working in BLO is recommended for best results.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crocheters complete this project in 5-7 hours, though time may vary depending on experience, assembly complexity, and optional canvas or wire work.