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Swan Amigurumi Pattern

Swan Amigurumi Pattern
4.0★ Rating
8-10 Hours Time Needed
1.3K Made This
✂️

Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

All-Day Adventure

Requires 8-10 hours, ideal for a full day of immersive crocheting.

🧸

Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

About This Swan Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern teaches you how to crochet a plush swan amigurumi using Himalayan Dolphin Baby plush yarn. The design features a sculpted head and neck, textured looped wings, small coral legs and beak, plus an optional powdery flower. Detailed instructions include marker placement, shifting stitch guidance and step-by-step images to help you complete a neat, stable toy.

Swan Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Perfect as a decorative piece or a gentle toy, the swan measures about 23 cm using the recommended yarn and 4 mm hook. The wings are formed from loops tied along specific front-loop markers to create the fluffy effect.

Why You'll Love This Swan Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it turns plush yarn into a soft, sculptural swan with so much personality. I enjoy the contrast between the smooth body and the fluffy looped wings — it feels like two techniques in one project. The clear marker placement and photos made shaping intuitive for me, and I appreciated the careful guidance on shifting stitches for symmetry. Making this swan feels rewarding and relaxing, and I always smile when I see the finished curves of the neck and the delicate flower detail.

Swan Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Swan Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Swan Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Swan Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how easy it is to customize this swan by changing colors — try pastel blues or lavender instead of pink for a different mood.

If you want a larger swan, use a bulkier plush yarn and a larger hook; for a miniature version use thinner yarn and a smaller hook.

I often add small embroidered details like eyelashes or tiny sequins to give the face more personality and sparkle.

You can make the wings denser by increasing the number of looped combinations per marker, or more sparse by reducing them slightly.

For a posable neck, consider adding a thin wire inside the neck before closing, but be cautious and secure the ends so they are safe and hidden.

Try experimenting with ombre yarn for the wings to get a gradient fluffy effect without changing colors mid-project.

If you prefer safety eyes to embroidery, place them between the same rows indicated and reinforce with backing washers if the toy will be handled by older children.

I sometimes make a small matching scarf or bow in contrasting yarn to dress the swan as a giftable set.

Change the flower color or make multiple small flowers to form a crown for a whimsical look.

Use different marker colors or thread loops to help remember where each wing cluster and color grouping belongs — it makes assembly so much faster.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping stitch markers when forming front-loop combinations will make wing placement uneven; place colored markers as instructed and count loops before attaching wings. ✗ Working with loose tension causes the stuffing to show through the plush yarn; use a slightly tighter tension and smaller hook if your fabric is too open. ✗ Forgetting to move the marker during reduction rows disrupts symmetry and causes uneven shaping; follow the instructions to remove and move the marker one stitch forward when prompted. ✗ Not stuffing gradually makes shaping difficult and lumpy; add filler slowly, shaping the neck and body as you go and stuffing more firmly near the base for stability.

Swan Amigurumi Pattern

Make a charming handmade swan using plush Himalaya Dolphin Baby yarn and simple amigurumi techniques. This pattern guides you step-by-step through the beak, head, neck, body, wings, legs and a small flower embellishment so you can create a soft, cuddly decorative toy. Suitable for crocheters who can follow increases, decreases and working in spiral, it features clear photos and marker placement tips to help you finish a polished swan.

Intermediate 8-10 Hours

Materials Needed for Swan Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Himalaya Dolphin Baby plush yarn - White color № 80301 - 1 to 1.5 skeins for body
  • 02
    Himalaya Dolphin Baby plush yarn - Pink color № 80319 - 1 skein for wings
  • 03
    Himalaya Dolphin Baby plush yarn - Coral color № 80332 - small amount for beak and legs
  • 04
    Himalaya Dolphin Baby plush yarn - Powdery color № 80353 - small amount for flower
  • 05
    Semi-cotton or acrylic yarn to match main yarn for sewing details (optional)
  • 06
    Strong black yarn (e.g. Alize Forever № 60 acrylic) for embroidered eyes

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size 3.5-4.5 mm (use 4 mm for Himalaya Dolphin Baby yarn as recommended)
  • 02
    Polyester stuffing (holofiber)
  • 03
    Needle for sewing details
  • 04
    Scissors
  • 05
    Stitch markers (several colors for front/back loop marking)
  • 06
    Yarn needle for weaving ends and sewing parts
  • 07
    Pins for temporary placement (optional)

Progress Tracker

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— Beak :

Info :

Use yarn Himalaya Dolphin Baby in coral color, with a crochet hook size № 4. Marker is in the center of the side of the beak. If necessary, crochet a shifting stitch to be in the center. Combinations, highlighted in blue, should be located relatively on the center of the front part of the beak.

Round 1 :

Make 4 ch. Start crocheting in the second ch from the hook – 3 sc, continue crocheting on the second side of chain – 3 sc (6)

Round 2 :

6 sc (6)

Round 3 :

inc, 1 sc, inc, 3 sc (8)

Round 4 :

8 sc (8)

Round 5 :

2 sc, 3 sc into 1, 5 sc (10)

Round 6 :

10 sc (10)

Round 7 :

2 sc, 3 sc into 1, 7 sc (12)

Round 8 :

3 sc, 3 sc into 1, 4 sc, 3 slst – on this finish crocheting this row (do not crochet 1 loop from the row) (14)

Infos :

When crocheting the last slst, change coral color thread to the white color thread. Put holofiber into the beak. Next move on to crochet the head.

— Head+Neck+Body :

Info :

Crochet the head around the beak with Himalaya Dolphin Baby yarn in white color, with a crochet hook size № 4. Stuff the legs with filler as you crochet. Distribute the filler well. The lower part of the head and body has a flat shape – keep this in mind when filling! Optional – you can use a wire frame. Combinations highlighted in blue should be located relatively on the center of the front part of the head. All SLST should be located relatively on the center of the bottom part of the head.

Info :

IMPORTANT: The last loop of each row should be located in the center of the lower part of the head!!! The marker passes next to this loop. If necessary, crochet a shifting stitch. Shifting stitch is crocheted with sc BEFORE COMBINATION with SLST. Shifting stitch is individual and depends on yarn and crocheting density.

Round 1 :

2 slst, inc, 2 sc, 1 hdc, 5 hdc into 1, 1 hdc, 2 sc, inc, 3 slst (20)

Round 2 :

2 slst, inc, 5 sc, 1 hdc, 5 hdc into 1, 1 hdc, 5 sc, inc, 3 slst (26)

Round 3 :

2 slst, inc, 6 sc, 7 hdc, 6 sc, inc, 3 slst (28)

Round 4 :

2 slst, inc, 9 sc, 1 hdc, 3 hdc into 1, 1 hdc, 9 sc, inc, 3 slst (32)

Round 5 :

2 slst, 11 sc, 5 hdc, 11 sc, 3 slst (32)

Round 6 :

2 slst, 11 sc, 5 hdc, 11 sc, 1 slst, remove marker (move it 1 stitch forward), crochet 3 stitch together with slst (30)

Round 7 :

1 slst, 11 sc, 5 hdc, 11 sc, – remove marker (move it 1 stitch forward), crochet 3 stitch together with slst (28)

Round 8 :

1 slst, 5 sc, dec, 3 sc, 5 hdc, 3 sc, dec, 5 sc, – remove marker (move it 1 stitch forward), crochet 3 stitch together with slst (24)

Round 9 :

1 slst, 8 sc, 5 hdc, 8 sc, remove marker (move it 1 stitch forward), crochet 3 stitch together with slst (22)

Round 10 :

1 slst, 4 sc, dec, 1 sc, 5 hdc, 1 sc, dec, 4 sc, – remove marker (move it 1 stitch forward), crochet 3 stitch together with slst (18)

Round 11 :

1 slst, 2 sc, dec, 1 sc, 5 hdc, 1 sc, dec, 2 sc, – remove marker (move it 1 stitch forward), crochet 3 stitch together with slst (14)

Round 12 :

1 slst, 3 sc, 5 hdc, 3 sc, – remove marker (move it 1 stitch forward), crochet 3 stitch together with slst (12)

Round 13 :

1 slst, 2 sc, 5 hdc, 2 sc, 2 slst (12)

Round 14 :

1 slst, 2 sc, 5 hdc, 2 sc, 1 slst, back loop only – 1 slst (I advise you to put markers on the back loops so as not to lose them) (12)

Round 15 :

1 slst, 2 sc, 5 hdc, 2 sc, 2 slst (12)

Round 16 :

1 slst, 3 sc, 3 hdc, 3 sc, 2 slst (12)

Round 17 :

1 slst, 4 sc, 1 hdc, 4 sc, 1 slst, 1 slst, grabbing the back loop of the stitch left in the 14th row (as shown in the photo) (12), remove the marker, crochet another 5-6 sc, to reach the center of the back of the neck, set the marker.

Info :

The MARKER now runs down the center of the BACK OF THE NECK, moving to the CENTER OF THE BACK. If necessary, crochet a shifting stitch to be in the center. Shifting stitch is individual and depends on yarn and crocheting density. Combinations highlighted in red should be located relatively on the center of the inner part of the neck – from the side of the head.

Round 18 :

5 sc, inc, 6 sc (13)

Round 19 :

5 sc, 3 slst, 5 sc (13)

Round 20 :

6 sc, inc, 6 sc (14)

Round 21 :

1 sc, dec, 2 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 2 sc, dec, 1 sc (14)

Round 22 :

6 sc, 2 inc, 6 sc (16)

Round 23 :

6 sc, 4 slst, 6 sc (16)

Round 24 :

6 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 6 sc (18)

Round 25 :

1 sc, dec, 5 sc, 2 inc, 5 sc, dec, 1 sc (18)

Round 26 :

18 sc (18)

Round 27 :

1 sc, dec, 4 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 4 sc, dec, 1 sc (18)

Round 28 :

8 sc, 2 inc, 8 sc (20)

Round 29 :

1 sc, dec, 5 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 5 sc, dec, 1 sc (20)

Round 30 :

9 sc, 2 inc, 9 sc (22)

Round 31 :

9 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 9 sc (24)

Round 32 :

11 sc, 2 inc, 11 sc (26)

Round 33 :

1 sc, dec, 9 sc, 2 inc, 9 sc, dec, 1 sc (26)

Round 34 :

11 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 11 sc (28)

Round 35 :

1 sc, dec, 10 sc, 2 inc, 10 sc, dec, 1 sc (28)

Round 36 :

12 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 12 sc (30)

Round 37 :

1 sc, dec, 6 sc, inc, 4 sc, 2 inc, 4 sc, inc, 6 sc, dec, 1 sc (32)

Round 38 :

1 sc, dec, 9 sc, inc, 2 sc, 2 inc, 2 sc, inc, 8 sc, 1 slst, dec with slst, 1 slst (34)

Round 39 :

6 slst, 22 sc, 3 slst, back loop only – 3 slst (I advise you to put markers on the back loops so as not to lose them) (34)

Round 40 :

Back loop only – 3 slst (I advise you to put markers on the back loops so as not to lose them), for both loops – 6 sc, inc, 6 sc, 2 inc, 6 sc, inc, 6 sc, 3 slst, grabbing the back loop of the stitch, left in the 39th row (38)

Round 41 :

3 slst, grabbing the back loop of the stitch, left in the 40th row, 5 slst, 5 sc, inc, 10 sc, inc, 5 sc, 5 slst, back loop only – 3 slst (I advise you to put markers on the back loops so as not to lose them) (40)

Round 42 :

Back loop only – 3 slst (I advise you to put markers on the back loops so as not to lose them), for both loops – 5 sc, inc, 6 sc, inc, 3 sc, 2 inc, 3 sc, inc, 6 sc, inc, 5 sc, 3 slst, grabbing the back loop of the stitch, left in the 41st row (46)

Round 43 :

3 slst, grabbing the back loop of the stitch, left in the 42nd row, 7 slst, 9 sc, inc, 6 sc, inc, 9 sc, 7 slst, back loop only – 3 slst (I advise you to put markers on the back loops so as not to lose them) (48)

Round 44 :

Back loop only – 3 slst (I advise you to put markers on the back loops so as not to lose them), for both loops – 12 sc, inc, 16 sc, inc, 12 sc, 3 slst, grabbing the back loop of the stitch, left in the 43rd row (50)

Round 45 :

3 slst, grabbing the back loop of the stitch, left in the 44th row, 9 slst, 2 sc, inc, 9 sc, 2 inc, 9 sc, inc, 2 sc, 9 slst, back loop only – 3 slst (I advise you to put markers on the back loops so as not to lose them) (54)

Round 46 :

Back loop only – 3 slst (I advise you to put markers on the back loops so as not to lose them), for both loops – 48 sc, 3 slst (54)

Round 47 :

14 slst, 3 sc, inc, 18 sc, inc, 3 sc, 14 slst (56)

Round 48 :

3 slst, 7 sc, inc, 34 sc, inc, 7 sc, 3 slst (58)

Round 49 :

16 slst, 26 sc, 16 slst (58)

Round 50 :

3 inc, grabbing the back loop of the stitch, left in the 46th row, 10 inc, dec, 4 sc, (dec, 3 sc)*2, (3 sc, dec)*2, 4 sc, dec, 10 inc, 3 inc, grabbing the back loop of the stitch, left in the 45th row (78)

Round 51 :

(1 sc, inc)*5, 10 sc, (1 sc, inc)*3, dec, 22 sc, dec, (inc, 1 sc)*3, 10 sc, (inc, 1 sc)*5 (92)

Info :

Further, according to the scheme, markers will be placed on the front loops of the loops of certain combinations. Wings are tied along them at the end of the crocheting of the body. We put marker for convenience and visibility of loops. They are not required, therefore, in the absence of the required number/color of markers, navigate visually along the canvas or use thread segments as a marker.

Round 52 :

13 sc, back loop only – 10 sc (place green marker on the front bow of the first and last loop of the combination), for both loops – 11 sc, dec, 3 sc, dec, (2 sc, dec)*3, 3 sc, dec, 11 sc, back loop only – 10 sc (place green marker on the front bow of the first and last loop of the combination), for both loops – 13 sc (86)

Round 53 :

(6 sc, inc)*4, 5 sc, (dec, 4 sc)*3, dec, 5 sc, (inc, 6 sc)*4 (90)

Round 54 :

5 sc, inc, 5 sc, back loop only – (inc, 5 sc)*2 (place orange marker on the front bow of the first and last loop of the combination), for both loops – inc, 5 sc, inc, (dec, 3 sc)*3, (3 sc, dec)*3, inc, 5 sc, inc, back loop only – (inc, 5 sc)*2 (place orange marker on the front bow of the first and last loop of the combination), for both loops – 5 sc, inc, 5 sc (94)

Round 55 :

(7 sc, inc)*4, (3 sc, dec)*3, (dec, 3 sc)*3, (inc, 7 sc)*4 (96)

Round 56 :

11 sc, back loop only – 14 sc (place purple marker on the front bow of the first and last loop of the combination), for both loops – 8 sc, (dec, 3 sc)*3, (3 sc, dec)*3, 8 sc, back loop only – 14 sc (place purple marker on the front bow of the first and last loop of the combination), for both loops – 11 sc (90)

Round 57 :

(6 sc, inc)*4, 2 sc, (3 sc, dec)*3, (dec, 3 sc)*3, 2 sc, (inc, 6 sc)*4 (92)

Round 58 :

9 sc, back loop only – 15 sc (place blue marker on the front bow of the first and last loop of the combination), for both loops – 7 sc, (dec, 3 sc)*3, (3 sc, dec)*3, 7 sc, back loop only – 15 sc (place blue marker on the front bow of the first and last loop of the combination), for both loops – 9 sc (86)

Round 59 :

(6 sc, inc)*4, (3 sc, dec)*3, (dec, 3 sc)*3, (inc, 6 sc)*4 (88)

Round 60 :

7 sc, back loop only – 17 sc (place pink marker on the front bow of the first and last loop of the combination), for both loops – 5 sc, (dec, 3 sc)*3, (3 sc, dec)*3, 5 sc, back loop only – 17 sc (place pink marker on the front bow of the first and last loop of the combination), for both loops – 7 sc (82)

Round 61 :

(5 sc, inc)*4, 2 sc, (3 sc, dec)*3, (dec, 3 sc)*3, 2 sc, (inc, 5 sc)*4 (84)

Round 62 :

5 sc, back loop only – 19 sc (place yellow marker on the front bow of the first and last loop of the combination), for both loops – 3 sc, (dec, 3 sc)*3, (3 sc, dec)*3, 3 sc, back loop only – 19 sc (place yellow marker on the front bow of the first and last loop of the combination), for both loops – 5 sc (78)

Round 63 :

(5 sc, inc)*4, (3 sc, dec)*3, (dec, 3 sc)*3, (inc, 5 sc)*4 (80)

Round 64 :

25 sc, (dec, 3 sc)*3, (3 sc, dec)*3, 25 sc (74)

Round 65 :

(6 sc, inc)*4, (1 sc, dec)*3, (dec, 1 sc)*3, (inc, 6 sc)*3, inc, 3 sc, (3 sc into 1)*3 (82)

Round 66 :

(3 sc into 1)*3, 29 sc, 6 dec, 38 sc (76)

Round 67 :

40 sc, 1 slst – on this we finish crocheting a row. Fix the thread, do not cut it, put a long piece of thread to the stitch the back of the body (about 50-60 cm). Add holofiber.

Infos :

Using the remaining piece of the thread, sew the resulting hole in the back of the toy – 38 stitches in total. Fix the thread, hide it.

— Wings (2 details) :

Info :

Use yarn Himalaya Dolphin Baby in pink color, with a crochet hook size № 4. Attach the pink thread to the last front bow of the loop of the 52nd row, as shown in the photo, make 5 chain. Next, in each loop crochet the following combination: (dtr, ch, dtr, 3 ch, sc in the third loop from the hook).

Right Wing (P1) :

On the 52nd row from green to green marker, crochet this combination 10 times – under each left front loops. Turn the toy for convenience and go to the 54th row.

Right Wing (P2) :

On the 54th row from orange to orange marker, crochet this combination 12 times – under each left front loops. Turn the toy for convenience and go to the 56th row.

Right Wing (P3) :

On the 56th row from purple to purple marker, crochet this combination 14 times – under each left front loops. Turn the toy for convenience and go to the 58th row.

Right Wing (P4) :

On the 58th row from blue to blue marker, crochet this combination 15 times – under each left front loops. Turn the toy for convenience and go to the 60th row.

Right Wing (P5) :

On the 60th row from pink to pink marker, crochet this combination 17 times – under each left front loops. Turn the toy for convenience and go to the 62nd row.

Right Wing (P6) :

On the 62nd row from yellow to yellow marker, crochet this combination 19 times – under each left front loops. Make 4 ch and attach the chain to the last slst in the 60th row with slst as shown in the photo. Fix, cut the thread, hide it. Optionally – threads from the crocheting of the wings (beginning and end) with a needle, bring out at 1 point, tie together into 2-3 knots and hide in the canvas.

Info :

Similarly crochet the LEFT WING following the same markers and counts, aligning to corresponding colored markers on the other side.

— Right Wing Detail Instructions :

Round 1 :

On the 52nd row from green to green marker, crochet the combination 10 times under each left front loop, turn toy for convenience and go to the 54th row.

Round 2 :

On the 54th row from orange to orange marker, crochet the combination 12 times under each left front loop, turn and go to the 56th row.

Round 3 :

On the 56th row from purple to purple marker, crochet the combination 14 times under each left front loop, turn and go to the 58th row.

Round 4 :

On the 58th row from blue to blue marker, crochet the combination 15 times under each left front loop, turn and go to the 60th row.

Round 5 :

On the 60th row from pink to pink marker, crochet the combination 17 times under each left front loop, turn and go to the 62nd row.

Round 6 :

On the 62nd row from yellow to yellow marker, crochet the combination 19 times under each left front loop. Make 4 ch and attach the chain to the last slst in the 60th row with slst. Fix and hide ends.

— Legs (2 details) :

Round 1 :

Make 5 ch. Start crocheting in the second ch from the hook – 4 sc, continue crocheting on the second side of chain – 4 sc (8)

Round 2 :

8 sc (8)

Round 3 :

3 sc, dec, 2 sc, remove marker, crochet more 1 dec and 3 sc (6)

Info :

Fill a little leg with holofiber. Fold in half, connect by crocheting 3 sc. Leave thread for sewing.

Info :

Sew the legs to the body between the 57th and 58th rows at a distance 6-7 sc.

— Flower :

Info :

Start crocheting with Himalaya Dolphin Baby yarn in powdery color, with a crochet hook size № 4. Leave a piece of thread at the beginning of crocheting with a length of 10-15 cm.

Round 1 :

AR, 6 sc in AR (6). When crocheting the last sc, change powdery color thread to the pink color thread.

Round 2 :

Next, in each loop crochet the following combination: (2 ch, 2 trc, 2 ch, 1 slst). Fasten the thread.

Info :

Using the remaining pieces of thread, sew a flower to the head or neck of the toy.

— Finishing :

Info :

Embroider eyes on the 3rd – 4th row of the head at a distance of 11 sc. Embroider nostrils between 1st and 2nd row of the beak at a distance of 1-2 sc.

Assembly Instructions

  • Attach the beak to the head and continue crocheting the head and neck as instructed; when the body is complete, use the long thread left at round 67 to sew the opening in the back by securing 38 stitches and hiding the tail.
  • Position and sew the wings along the front-loop markers placed during rounds 52-62, aligning colored markers (green, orange, purple, blue, pink, yellow) and securing each fluffy loop group firmly.
  • Sew legs to the bottom of the body between rows 57 and 58 spaced about 6-7 sc apart for stability, and secure threads inside the body.
  • Sew the powdery/pink flower onto the head or neck using remaining thread ends, and embroider eyes (3rd–4th row) and nostrils (between beak rows 1–2) with strong black yarn.

Important Notes

  • 💡Work in a spiral; the rows are not joined unless explicitly instructed; use a marker to identify the beginning of each round.
  • 💡Use stitch markers on front and back loops as directed (colored markers) to guide wing placement and avoid losing back loops.
  • 💡Keep your tension slightly tighter than for regular yarn to prevent stuffing from showing through plush yarn; adjust hook size if needed.
  • 💡Stuff gradually while shaping the neck and body; overstuffing may distort the shape and under-stuffing may collapse the neck.

This sweet swan amigurumi combines plush texture and sculpted shaping to create a delightful handmade accent for any home. The looped pink wings and elegant curved neck make it a special keepsake to gift or display. Enjoy the process and celebrate each small milestone as the swan comes to life! 🧶🦢

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

When using Himalaya Dolphin Baby yarn and a 4 mm hook with tight crocheting, the finished swan comes out about 23 cm (9.05 in) in size.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes — you can use different yarn weights, but the final size and texture will change. For a very similar look use plush or chenille-style yarn and adjust your hook for a dense fabric.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate, so basic knowledge of sc, inc, dec, working in spiral, and front/back loop identification is recommended for best results.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crocheters complete this project in 8-10 hours, though time may vary based on experience level and how much time you spend on detailed finishing and wings.