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Snorlax Amigurumi Pattern

Snorlax Amigurumi Pattern
4.3★ Rating
12-15 Hours Time Needed
2.4K Made This
✂️

Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Multi-Day Project

A rewarding 12+ hour journey—perfect for dedicated crafters who love detailed work.

🧸

Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

About This Snorlax Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern creates a large Snorlax-style amigurumi using Bernat Blanket yarn with full round-by-round instructions. Youll work mostly in continuous rounds with a few sections in rows for shaping. The pattern includes separate pieces for head, body, ears, arms, feet, foot pads, claws and a belly patch for accurate placement. Detailed assembly notes and photos guide you through pinning and sewing for a neat finish.

Snorlax Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Designed for an intermediate crocheter, the finished Snorlax is large and extremely cuddly. The pattern emphasizes consistent tension and provides helpful tips for stuffing and sewing the pieces together.

Why You'll Love This Snorlax Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it turns simple stitches into a giant, cuddle-ready Snorlax that feels like a warm hug. I enjoyed designing the oval body shape and the belly patch to match the character proportions. Sewing the patch and working around the posts of the stitches gives such a neat finish — it makes the whole piece look handcrafted and professional. I also love that this project is flexible: you can change colours or make a smaller version by switching yarn weight.

Snorlax Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Snorlax Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Snorlax Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Snorlax Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how easy it is to customize this Snorlax to create unique versions for gifts or decor.

I often change the main colour to make fun variations: try pastel tones for a nursery-friendly version or bright pop colours for a playful look.

To change the size, simply swap yarn weight and adjust your hook: bulky yarn and a larger hook will produce a chunkier Snorlax, while a lighter yarn will make a smaller, more compact version.

I sometimes add embroidered details or felt accents for different facial expressions — small changes to the eyes or mouth really change the personality.

Want posable limbs? Add craft wire inside the arms and legs before stuffing to make them adjustable for display.

Swap the foot pads for felt or leather pieces if you want a firmer sole or a mixed-material look for the feet.

I recommend experimenting with different claws: you can crochet larger claws or use safety claws (careful with small parts for children) to make them stand out more.

Make a mini keychain version by using a DK weight yarn and a smaller hook, reducing rounds proportionately and omitting some stuffing for portability.

Try adding clothes or accessories — a small crochet scarf, a tiny hat or even a backpack — to personalize your Snorlax and give it character.

For a cleaner finish, I sometimes stitch an extra row of border around the belly patch in a contrasting colour before sewing it on; it frames the patch nicely and hides slight placement differences.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping stitch markers during continuous rounds leads to lost stitch counts; place a marker at the start of every round and move it as you work to keep track of rounds and shaping. ✗ Not stuffing evenly causes lumpy or misshapen sections; stuff gradually, especially the head and body, adding small amounts and shaping as you go to maintain the oval body. ✗ Pulling yarn too tight when using blanket yarn makes stitches hard to close; use a slightly larger or firmer hook and maintain steady, moderate tension for even stitches and to prevent stuffing showing through. ✗ Rushing the belly patch placement can create uneven edges; pin the belly patch carefully (bottom between rounds 15 & 16 of the body and top between rounds 8 & 9 of the head) and sew around the posts for a neater finish.

Snorlax Amigurumi Pattern

Make a giant, cuddly Snorlax using soft Bernat Blanket yarn with clear, step-by-step instructions. This pattern walks you through every round for the head, body, ears, arms, feet, belly patch, claws and foot pads, plus complete assembly tips. Youll get helpful placement notes and finishing tips so your Snorlax looks neat and sturdy. Perfect for making a large, huggable plush to keep or gift.

Intermediate 12-15 Hours

Materials Needed for Snorlax Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Bernat Blanket yarn, Lagoon (regular) or Lapis (shiny) - 3 large skeins (main body/head/arms)
  • 02
    Bernat Blanket yarn, Birch - 1 skein (belly, face, feet)
  • 03
    Bernat Blanket yarn, Taupe - less than 1 skein (foot pads)
  • 04
    Bernat Blanket yarn, White - small skein (claws and foot pad details)
  • 05
    Optional: Bernat Blanket yarn, Black - small amount (eyes & mouth embroidery)
  • 06
    Small piece of white felt for teeth

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size 7mm (or whatever size makes your stitches tight enough that the stuffing isnt popping through)
  • 02
    Stitch marker
  • 03
    Sewing needle for sewing parts together
  • 04
    Scissors
  • 05
    Fabric glue (small amount for teeth if desired)
  • 06
    Pins (T-pins recommended)
  • 07
    Polyester stuffing approx 5 lbs (he's big!)
  • 08
    Small piece of felt for teeth

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— Head :

Info :

Worked in continuous rounds - do not slip stitch/chain one to join rounds.

Info :

Made in "Lagoon" or "Lapis"

Round 1 :

Make 6 sc in a magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

Increase in each stitch (12)

Round 3 :

(sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

sc, inc, (2 sc, inc) x 5, sc (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6 :

2 sc, inc, (4 sc, inc) x 5, 2 sc (36)

Round 7 :

(5 sc, inc) x 6 (42)

Round 8 :

3 sc, inc, (6 sc, inc) x 5, 3 sc (48)

Round 9 :

(7 sc, inc) x 6 (54)

Round 10 :

sc in each stitch (54)

Round 11 :

4 sc, inc, (8 sc, inc) x 5, 4 sc (60)

Round 12 :

sc in each stitch (60)

Round 13 :

(14 sc, inc) x 4 (64)

Round 14-18 :

sc in each stitch (64)

Round 19 :

(14 sc, dec) x 4 (60)

Round 20 :

sc in each stitch (60)

Round 21 :

4 sc, dec, (8 sc, dec) x 5, 4 sc (54)

Round 22 :

sc in each stitch (54)

Round 23 :

(7 sc, dec) x 6 (54)

Info :

Fasten off. Add stuffing to the head. The increases from round 13 should make the head slightly oval-shaped.

— Body :

Info :

Worked in an oval shape

Info :

Worked in continuous rounds - do not slip stitch/chain one to join

Info :

Made in "Lagoon" or "Lapis"

Round 1 :

Chain 18. Starting in the second chain from the hook: inc, 15 sc, make 3 sc in the last chain. Turn so you are working on the opposite side of the foundation chain. 16 sc. (36)

Round 2 :

inc, inc, 15 sc, inc, inc, inc, 15 sc, inc (42)

Round 3 :

sc, inc, sc, inc, 16 sc, inc, sc, inc, sc, inc, 16 sc, inc (48)

Round 4 :

2 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 17 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 17 sc, inc (54)

Round 5 :

3 sc, inc, 3 sc, inc, 18 sc, inc, 3 sc, inc, 3 sc, inc, 18 sc, inc (60)

Round 6 :

4 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 19 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 19 sc, inc (66)

Round 7 :

5 sc, inc, 5 sc, inc, 20 sc, inc, 5 sc, inc, 5 sc, inc, 20 sc, inc (72)

Round 8 :

4 sc, inc, (8 sc, inc) x 7, 4 sc (80)

Round 9 :

(9 sc, inc) x 8 (88)

Round 10 :

5 sc, inc, (10 sc, inc) x 7, 5 sc (96)

Round 11 :

sc in each stitch (96)

Round 12 :

(11 sc, inc) x 8 (104)

Round 13 :

sc in each stitch (104)

Round 14 :

6 sc, inc, (12 sc, inc) x 7, 6 sc (112)

Round 15-24 :

sc in each stitch (112)

Round 25 :

6 sc, dec, (12 sc, dec) x 7, 6 sc (104)

Round 26-29 :

sc in each stitch (104)

Round 30 :

(11 sc, dec) x 8 (96)

Round 31 :

sc in each stitch (96)

Round 32 :

5 sc, dec, (10 sc, dec) x 7, 5 sc (88)

Round 33 :

sc in each stitch (88)

Round 34 :

(9 sc, dec) x 8 (80)

Round 35 :

4 sc, dec, (8 sc, dec) x 7, 4 sc (72)

Round 36 :

sc in each stitch (72)

Round 37 :

(7 sc, dec) x 8 (64)

Round 38 :

sc in each stitch (64)

Round 39 :

3 sc, dec, (6 sc, dec) x 7, 3 sc (56)

Round 40 :

sc in each stitch (56)

Round 41 :

(5 sc, dec) x 8 (48)

Info :

Fasten off, leaving a very long tail to sew the body to the head. Add a LOT of stuffing to the body.

— Ears :

Info :

Make two ears

Info :

Made in continuous rounds - do not slip stitch/chain one to join

Info :

Made in "Lagoon" or "Lapis"

Round 1 :

Make 6 sc in a magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

(sc, inc) x 3 (9)

Round 3 :

sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, sc (12)

Round 4 :

sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, sc (16)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, inc) x 4 (20)

Round 6 :

2 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 2 sc (24)

Info :

Fasten off, leaving a long tail to sew to the head.

— Arms :

Info :

Make two arms

Info :

Made in continuous rounds - do not slip stitch/chain one to join

Info :

Made in "Lagoon" or "Lapis"

Round 1 :

Make 6 sc in a magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

increase in each stitch (12)

Round 3 :

inc, inc, 3 sc, inc, inc, inc, 3 sc, inc (18)

Round 4 :

sc in each stitch (18)

Round 5 :

4 sc, inc, 8 sc, inc, 4 sc (20)

Round 6 :

9 sc, inc, 9 sc, inc (22)

Round 7-11 :

sc in each stitch (22)

Round 12 :

sc in each stitch, then chain one & turn to start working in rows (22)

Info :

Working in rows instead of rounds. Make sure you have already chained & turned!:

Row 13 :

16 sc, chain one & turn (16)

Row 14 :

dec, 12 sc, dec, chain one & turn (14)

Row 15 :

14 sc, chain one & turn (14)

Row 16 :

dec, 10 sc, dec, chain one & turn (12)

Row 17 :

12 sc, chain one & turn (12)

Row 18 :

dec, 8 sc, dec, chain one & turn (10)

Row 19 :

10 sc, chain one & turn (10)

Row 20 :

dec, 6 sc, dec, chain one & turn (8)

Row 21 :

8 sc, chain one & turn (8)

Row 22 :

dec, 4 sc, dec, chain one & turn (6)

Row 23 :

6 sc (6)

Info :

Fasten off, leaving a long tail to sew to the sides of the body. Add stuffing to the bottom of the arm (the part that's in rows will be stuffed when the arm is sewed to the body).

— Feet :

Info :

Make two feet

Info :

Worked in continuous rounds - do not slip stitch/chain one to join

Info :

Made in "Birch"

Round 1 :

Chain 6. Starting in the second chain from the hook: inc, 3 sc, make 3 sc in the last chain. Turn so you are working on the opposite side of the foundation chain. 4 sc. (12)

Round 2 :

inc, inc, 3 sc, inc, inc, inc, 3 sc, inc (18)

Round 3 :

sc, inc, sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, sc, inc, sc, inc, 4 sc, inc (24)

Round 4 :

2 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 5 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 5 sc, inc (30)

Round 5 :

3 sc, inc, 3 sc, inc, 6 sc, inc, 3 sc, inc, 3 sc, inc, 6 sc, inc (36)

Round 6 :

3 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 7 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 7 sc, inc, sc (42) - please note the beginning of this round does NOT have an error in it. My rounds shifted a bit (the first increase wasnt centered with the chain) - it should be "4 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc" BUT instead, one of the first four single crochet stitches is at the end of the round. Ezpz.

Round 7-8 :

sc in each stitch (42)

Round 9 :

4 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 7 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 7 sc, dec (36) again, rounds shifted a bit, so instead of doing the 3 sc and then having the fourth sc at the END of the round, just do 4 sc at the beginning. Feel free to ignore these explanations & just follow the pattern - they're only written for the folks who are nit-picky about patterns ;)

Round 10 :

3 sc, dec, 3 sc, dec, 6 sc, dec, 3 sc, dec, 3 sc, dec, 6 sc, dec (30)

Round 11 :

2 sc, dec, 2 sc, dec, 5 sc, dec, 2 sc, dec, 2 sc, dec, 5 sc, dec (24)

Round 12 :

2 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 2 sc (20)

Info :

Fasten off, leaving a long tail to sew each of the feet to the body. Add stuffing to the feet.

— Foot pads :

Info :

Make two foot pads

Info :

Worked in joined rounds - slip stitch & chain one at the end of each round

Info :

Made in "Taupe"

Round 1 :

Make 8 hdc in a magic ring, slip stitch to the first stitch & chain one (8)

Round 2 :

Make a half double crochet increase in the same stitch as the slip stitch. Half double crochet increase in each of the next 7 stitches. Slip stitch to the first stitch (16)

Info :

Fasten off, leaving a tail to sew to the foot.

— Belly Patch :

Info :

Worked in rows

Info :

Made in "Birch"

Row 1 :

Chain 13. Starting in the second chain from the hook: inc, 10 sc, inc, chain one & turn (14)

Row 2 :

inc, 12 sc, inc, chain one & turn (16)

Row 3 :

inc, 14 sc, inc, chain one & turn (18)

Row 4 :

inc, 16 sc, inc, chain one & turn (20)

Row 5 :

inc, 18 sc, inc, chain one & turn (22)

Row 6 :

inc, 20 sc, inc, chain one & turn (24)

Row 7-18 :

24 sc, chain one & turn (24)

Row 19 :

dec, 20 sc, dec, chain one & turn (22)

Row 20 :

22 sc, chain one & turn (22)

Row 21 :

dec, 18 sc, dec, chain one & turn (20)

Row 22 :

20 sc, chain one & turn (20)

Row 23 :

dec, 16 sc, dec, chain one & turn (18)

Row 24 :

dec, 14 sc, dec, chain one & turn (16)

Row 25 :

16 sc, chain one & turn (16)

Row 26 :

dec, 12 sc, dec, chain one & turn (14)

Row 27 :

dec, 10 sc, dec, chain one & turn (12)

Row 28 :

12 sc, chain one & turn (12)

Row 29 :

inc, 10 sc, inc, chain one & turn (14)

Row 30 :

inc, 12 sc, inc, chain one & turn (16)

Row 31-37 :

16 sc, chain one & turn (16)

Row 38 :

dec, 4 sc, dec. Place marker in the next stitch (the ninth stitch from row 37). Chain one & turn (6)

Row 39 :

6 sc, chain one & turn (6)

Row 40 :

dec, 2 sc, dec, chain one & turn (4)

Row 41 :

dec, dec, chain one & turn (2)

Row 42 :

dec (1)

Info :

Fasten off. Attach yarn in the stitch that was marked in row 37, when making row 38 & continue:

Row 43 :

dec, 4 sc, dec, chain one & turn (6)

Row 44 :

6 sc, chain one & turn (6)

Row 45 :

dec, 2 sc, dec, chain one & turn (4)

Row 46 :

dec, dec, chain one & turn (2)

Row 47 :

dec (1)

Info :

Fasten off. Flip the belly patch over so that the right side of the piece is facing. Attach a new piece of yarn to the bottom left corner & sc a border around. Make 3 sc in row 42. Make 4 sc down the sides of the rows of the top piece. Dec over the next two stitches. Make 4 sc up the other side of the rows (on the second top piece) & make 3 sc in row 47. Then continue on down the other side of the piece.

Info :

Make sure that you have an even number of stitches on both of the long sides of the piece. When finished crocheting the border, fasten off & leave a very long tail to sew the belly patch to the body.

— Claws (hands) :

Info :

Make 10 claws (yeah, it's a pain)

Info :

Made in "White"

Round 1 :

Make a magic ring with 3 sc. Slip stitch to the first stitch (3)

Info :

Fasten off, leaving a tail to sew to the hands. IF you are finding it difficult to make a magic ring with 3 sc: Chain 2. Make 3 sc in the second chain from the hook. Slip stitch to the first stitch (3). Fasten off, leaving a tail to sew to the hands.

— Claws (feet) :

Info :

Make 6 claws

Info :

Worked in continuous rounds - do not slip stitch/chain one to join

Info :

Made in "White"

Round 1 :

Make a magic ring with 3 sc (3)

Round 2 :

inc, inc, inc (6)

Round 3 :

sc in each stitch (6)

Info :

Fasten off, leaving a tail to sew the claws to the feet.

— Assembly :

Info :

Stuff the body & head firmly. Itll take a LOT of stuffing, but thats okay. Hell be nice & cuddly.

Info :

Using the tail left over on the body, sew the body to the head. Sew through the tops of the stitches on the body and around the POSTS of the stitches from the last round of the head. The head should be slightly oval shaped (the increases from round 13 of the head should be on the sides) & the body is definitely oval shaped - so be mindful of that when sewing the two pieces together.

Info :

Next, pin the belly patch to the body. The bottom of the patch should sit between rounds 15&16 of the body. The top of the belly patch should sit between rounds 8&9 of the head. Pin carefully and sew around the posts for a neat finish.

Info :

Pin the ears to the head. They should sit between rounds 5&6, to between rounds 11&12 of the head. Before the ears are fully sewed on, add stuffing to them.

Info :

Pin the arms to the sides of the body aligning the top six stitches of the arm to the last round of the body (near the head) and the bottom six stitches to between rounds 28&29 of the body. Sew the arms in place and add stuffing near the seam so the arm isnt flat.

Info :

Sew a foot pad to each of the feet. They should sit between rounds 3&4 of the feet. Sew the feet to the body angled slightly outwards: bottoms of the feet between rounds 12&13 of the body, tops of the feet between rounds 19&20 of the body. Sew 3 of each of the foot claws to the feet between rounds 7&8 to 8&9 of the feet.

Info :

Pin 5 claws to each of the hands & sew them to the hands. They dont need stuffing. Using black yarn, embroider the eyes & mouth on the head part of the belly patch. Cut two small triangles from white felt for the teeth and glue near the mouth if desired.

Info :

If you made it this far - congratulations, youre finished! Weave in ends, tidy seams, and enjoy your giant Snorlax.

Assembly Instructions

  • Stuff the body and head firmly; use the long tail left on the body to sew the body to the head through the tops of the body stitches and around the posts of the head stitches for a neat join.
  • Pin the belly patch to the body with the bottom between rounds 15 and 16 of the body and the top between rounds 8 and 9 of the head; sew around the posts of the stitches for a clean border finish.
  • Pin ears between rounds 5 & 6 up to between rounds 11 & 12 of the head, stuff lightly before fully sewing, and attach securely.
  • Pin arms so the top six arm stitches align with the last round of the body near the head and the bottom six arm stitches sit between rounds 28 & 29 of the body; sew in place and add stuffing as you finish sewing to shape the arm seam.

Important Notes

  • 💡Gauge doesnt matter for this amigurumi; focus on keeping your stitches tight and consistent so stuffing wont show through.
  • 💡Use stitch markers to mark the start of each round and any special stitches described (for example, the marked stitch in row 37 of the belly patch).
  • 💡Pin all pieces in place before sewing, lining up the stitches carefully for symmetry and to avoid puckering.
  • 💡When sewing the belly patch and other edges, sew around the posts of the stitches (not just whipstitching over the edges) for a neater finish that blends with the crochet texture.
  • 💡Leave long tails when fastening off pieces that need to be sewn; its much easier to use a long tail when attaching large pieces like the body to the head.

This giant Snorlax amigurumi is a cozy, large-scale crochet project thats perfect for snuggles and statement decor. Its made with super-soft Bernat Blanket yarn and designed to be squishy and durable, with clear placement and assembly instructions. Whether you keep it or gift it, this Snorlax will bring smiles and comfort to any home. 🧶😊

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The finished Snorlax measures approximately 26 inches tall and about 28 inches wide (arm to arm) using the recommended Bernat Blanket yarn and a 7mm hook.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can use different yarn weights but the final size will change; use an appropriate hook to keep stitches tight enough so stuffing doesnt show through.

Do I need advanced crochet skills to make this?

This pattern is rated Intermediate — you should be comfortable with single crochet, half double crochet, increases and decreases, working in rounds and rows, and basic sewing of amigurumi pieces.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crocheters take about 12-15 hours to complete this large Snorlax, though time may vary based on experience and the speed at which you work.