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Phone Stand Horse/Unicorn Amigurumi Pattern

Phone Stand Horse/Unicorn Amigurumi Pattern
4.2β˜… Rating
12-15 Hours Time Needed
3.5K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Multi-Day Project

A rewarding 12+ hour journeyβ€”perfect for dedicated crafters who love detailed work.

🧸

Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

About This Phone Stand Horse/Unicorn Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern guides you to crochet a phone stand in the shape of a horse or unicorn, complete with hooves, mane, tail-parts and optional pockets. It includes separate pieces you sew or crochet onto the body for a neat, durable finish and uses DK or two strands of sport yarn for best results. The finished piece is sturdy thanks to a small bag of heavy filling and a compact design that holds most phones upright.

Phone Stand Horse/Unicorn Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

You will crochet several small parts (hooves, feet, mane parts, tail parts) and attach them during body rounds so the stand is nicely integrated. Photos and notes throughout help you place parts accurately and finish with a professional look.

Why You'll Love This Phone Stand Horse/Unicorn Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it combines practical design with a playful character that is both decorative and useful. I enjoy the step-by-step approach where small pieces are crocheted separately and then incorporated into the body for a sturdy finish. The mix of simple rounds and strategic attachment rounds keeps the work interesting without being overwhelming. It is satisfying to see the phone stand take shape as you add hooves, mane pieces and tail parts, and the finished piece makes a delightful handmade gift.

Phone Stand Horse/Unicorn Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Phone Stand Horse/Unicorn Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Phone Stand Horse/Unicorn Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Phone Stand Horse/Unicorn Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how easy it is to customize this pattern: you can change the colors to match your decor or make a set of rainbow unicorns by using different colors for each mane and tail-part.

I often swap the yarn to two strands of sport yarn for a slightly different texture or use a lighter yarn and smaller hook to create a mini keychain-sized version.

Try adding tiny embroidered details like freckles or blush by using running stitch or French knots to give your character more personality.

If you want a more poseable version, I sometimes add a piece of craft wire inside the arms so they can be arranged to hold small items or lean on a book.

For a sturdier phone stand I always use a small freezer bag with pea gravel or marbles; you can replace that with a heavier coin bag for extra stability if you plan to hold larger devices.

I like to make the hooves and feet in a different contrast color for a playful look; alternating hoof colors for the unicorn makes it feel extra whimsical.

To make a themed version, change the horn color to metallic or glitter yarn, or crochet tiny accessories like a scarf, bow or tiny crown to dress up the character.

I sometimes experiment with textured stitches on the body for a cozy lookβ€”try surface crocheting or a ribbed panel if you want a different texture on the phone cradle area.

Want to make it faster? Crochet some pieces in bulk (like many mane-parts) and then assemble them in one sitting; batching small parts speeds up production significantly.

Finally, I recommend trying different yarn fibers: cotton keeps shape well for a clean look, while acrylic gives a fluffier, softer finish; choose what works best for the recipient.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

βœ— Skipping stitch markers during shaping leads to lost stitch counts; place markers at the start of each round and at any marked stitches to stay accurate. βœ— Overstuffing the body makes it bulge and distort the shape; use the recommended amount of stuffing and add the heavy filling in a small bag to keep the bottom flat. βœ— Changing yarn weight without adjusting hook size results in incorrect dimensions; match yarn weight and hook size (3.0 mm with DK/two strands of sport) or recalculate gauge before starting. βœ— Forgetting to flatten and close small openings properly causes uneven edges; follow the instructions to flatten the opening and close with the exact number of stitch-pairs specified.

Phone Stand Horse/Unicorn Amigurumi Pattern

Make a charming horse or unicorn phone stand with this friendly crochet pattern. You'll create a sturdy, weighted body with removable tail parts and cute details like hooves, mane pieces and pockets. The pattern includes step-by-step rounds, photos and helpful assembly notes so you can crochet a practical and adorable accessory for your desk or nightstand.

Intermediate 12-15 Hours

Materials Needed for Phone Stand Horse/Unicorn Amigurumi Pattern

β€” Main Fabric

  • 01
    DK weight yarn (e.g. Puppets Lyric 8/8) for main body colors, approximately 80 g for body, legs, arms & ears
  • 02
    Hoof color - 12 g (dark/contrast color)
  • 03
    Tail color(s) - 12 g total (multiple small tail parts)
  • 04
    Pockets color - 7 g for the body’s pockets (make 2)
  • 05
    Mane color(s) - 14 g total for mane parts
  • 06
    Horn color - 3 g (for unicorn horn)
  • 07
    Small amounts of black for eyes and a contrast color for the mouth
  • 08
    Unicorn example colors: 5000 (white), 5008 (red), 5037 (orange), 5024 (yellow), 5090 (green), 5010 (blue), 5028 (purple), 0248 (light gray), 5001 (black)
  • 09
    Horse example colors: 5003 (brown), 5013 (dark brown), 5001 (black)

β€” Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size 3.0 mm
  • 02
    Tapestry needle(s)
  • 03
    Stitch markers (pieces of scrap yarn)
  • 04
    Scissors
  • 05
    Stuffing (polyester fiberfill)
  • 06
    A bit of heavy stuffing (pea gravel, marbles, sand) placed in a small freezer bag
  • 07
    Small freezer bag for the heavy stuffing
  • 08
    Optional: some colored pins for positioning pieces

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

β€” ARM (FRONT LEG) (make 2, begin with yarn in HOOF-COLOR) :

Info :

For the unicorn I made each hoof in a different color.

Round 1 :

magic ring of 8 sc - 8

Round 2 :

*2sc in next st* around - 16

Round 3 :

*2sc in next st, sc in next st* around - 24

Round 4 :

in back loops: *sc in next st* around - 24

Round 5 :

sc in next 6 st, *inv_dec, sc in next st* x4, sc in next 6 st - 20

Round 6 :

*sc in next st* around - 20

Round 7 :

*sc in next st* around - 20 change to BODY-COLOR with last st

Info :

fasten off HOOF-COLOR and secure both yarn-ends with several knots on the hoof's inside

Round 8 :

in back loops: *sc in next st* around - 20

Round 9 :

*inv_dec, sc in next 3 st* around - 16

Round 10 :

*sc in next st* around - 16

Round 11 :

*sc in next st* around - 16

Round 12 :

*sc in next st* around - 16

Info :

stuff the arm a little bit; the following part of the arm can remain empty

Round 13 :

*inv_dec, sc in next 6 st* x2 - 14

Round 14 :

*sc in next st* around - 14

Round 15 :

*inv_dec, sc in next 5 st* x2 - 12

Round 16 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 17 :

*inv_dec, sc in next 4 st* x2 - 10

Round 18 :

*sc in next st* around - 10

Round 19 :

sc in next 4 st, now flatten the opening so that the stitch you made last sits on the side; both side-stitches remain unworked; crochet the opening closed with: sc in next 4 stitch-pairs

Info :

see page 28 for details on crocheting openings closed; fasten off & weave in yarn-end

β€” FOOT (HIND LEG) (make 2, begin with yarn in HOOF-COLOR) :

Round 1 :

magic ring of 8 sc - 8

Round 2 :

*2sc in next st* around - 16

Round 3 :

*2sc in next st, sc in next st* around - 24

Round 4 :

in back loops: *sc in next st* around - 24

Round 5 :

sc in next 6 st, *inv_dec, sc in next st* x4, sc in next 6 st - 20

Round 6 :

*sc in next st* around - 20

Round 7 :

sc in next 7 st, *inv_dec, sc in next 2 st* x2, sc in next 5 st - 18 change to BODY-COLOR with last st

Round 8 :

in back loops: sc in next 5 st, *dec* x4, sc in next 5 st - 14

Info :

stuff the hoof a little bit, leave the rest of the leg empty

Round 9 :

sc in next 5 st, *inv_dec* x2, sc in next 5 st - 12

Round 10 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 11 :

sc in next 4 st, now flatten the opening so that the stitch you made last sits on the side; both side-stitches remain unworked; crochet the opening closed with: sc in next 5 stitch-pairs

Info :

see page 28 for details on crocheting openings closed; fasten off & weave in yarn-end

β€” TAIL-PART 1 (smallest) (make 1, use yarn in TAIL-COLOR) :

Round 1 :

magic ring of 8 sc - 8

Round 2 :

*2sc in next st, sc in next st* around - 12

Round 3 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 4 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 5 :

*inv_dec, sc in next 4 st* around - 10

Round 6 :

sc in next 2 st, now flatten the opening so that the stitch you made last sits on the side; both side-stitches remain unworked; crochet the opening closed with: sc in next 4 stitch-pairs

Round 7 :

ch 1 + turn, begin in 2nd st from hook: *sc in next st* across - 4

Info :

fasten off & weave in yarn-end

β€” TAIL-PART 2 (make 1, use yarn in TAIL-COLOR) :

Round 1 :

magic ring of 8 sc - 8

Round 2 :

*2sc in next st, sc in next st* around - 12

Round 3 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 4 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 5 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 6 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 7 :

*inv_dec, sc in next 4 st* around - 10

Round 8 :

sc in next 2 st, now flatten the opening so that the stitch you made last sits on the side; both side-stitches remain unworked; crochet the opening closed with: sc in next 4 stitch-pairs

Round 9 :

ch 1 + turn, begin in 2nd st from hook: *sc in next st* across - 4

Info :

fasten off & weave in yarn-end

β€” TAIL-PART 3 (make 1, use yarn in TAIL-COLOR) :

Round 1 :

magic ring of 8 sc - 8

Round 2 :

*2sc in next st, sc in next st* around - 12

Round 3 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 4 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 5 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 6 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 7 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 8 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 9 :

*inv_dec, sc in next 4 st* around - 10

Round 10 :

sc in next 2 st, now flatten the opening so that the stitch you made last sits on the side; both side-stitches remain unworked; crochet the opening closed with: sc in next 4 stitch-pairs

Round 11 :

ch 1 + turn, begin in 2nd st from hook: *sc in next st* across - 4

Info :

fasten off & weave in yarn-end

β€” TAIL-PART 4 (make 1, use yarn in TAIL-COLOR) :

Round 1 :

magic ring of 8 sc - 8

Round 2 :

*2sc in next st, sc in next st* around - 12

Round 3 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 4 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 5 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 6 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 7 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 8 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 9 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 10 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 11 :

*inv_dec, sc in next 4 st* around - 10

Round 12 :

sc in next 2 st, now flatten the opening so that the stitch you made last sits on the side; both side-stitches remain unworked; crochet the opening closed with: sc in next 4 stitch-pairs

Round 13 :

ch 1 + turn, begin in 2nd st from hook: *sc in next st* across - 4

Info :

fasten off & weave in yarn-end

β€” OPTIONAL: POCKET (make 2, use yarn in POCKET-COLOR) :

Info :

After a couple of rounds guide the yarn-end from the beginning to the outside through the center of the magic ring.

Round 1 :

magic ring of 7 sc - 7

Round 2 :

*2sc in next st* around - 14

Round 3 :

*sc in next st* around - 14

Round 4 :

*sc in next st* around - 14

Round 5 :

*sc in next st* around - 14

Round 6 :

*sc in next st* around - 14

Round 7 :

*sc in next st* around - 14

Round 8 :

*sc in next st* around - 14

Round 9 :

*sc in next st* around (sl in last st) - 14

Info :

fasten off & weave in yarn-end on the outside

β€” JAW (make 1, use yarn in BODY-COLOR) :

Info :

There are no regular increases here.

Round 1 :

magic ring of 6 sc - 6

Round 2 :

sc in next st, 3sc in next st, sc in next st, sc in next st, 2sc in next st, sc in next st, 3sc in next st - 11

Round 3 :

sc in next 2 st, 3sc in next st, sc in next st, 2sc in next st, sc in next 2 st, 2sc in next st, sc in next st, 3sc in next st, sc in next st - 17

Round 4 :

in this round two stitches are marked with additional markers; sc in next 3 st, 3sc in next st (mark the 1st of the 3-increase stitches), sc in next 2 st, 2sc in next st, sc in next 4 st, 2sc in next st, sc in next 2 st, 3sc in next st (mark the 3rd of the 3-increase stitches), sc in next 2 st - 23

Round 5 :

sl in first st

Info :

fasten off & weave in yarn-end on the back side

β€” MANE-PART 1 & 6 (smallest) (make 2, use yarn in MANE-COLOR) :

Round 1 :

magic ring of 8 sc - 8

Round 2 :

*2sc in next st, sc in next st* around - 12

Round 3 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 4 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 5 :

*inv_dec, sc in next 4 st* around - 10

Round 6 :

*inv_dec, sc in next 3 st* around - 8

Round 7 :

sc in next st, now flatten the opening so that the stitch you made last sits on the side; both side-stitches remain unworked; crochet the opening closed with: sc in next 3 stitch-pairs

Info :

fasten off & weave in yarn-end

β€” MANE-PART 2 & 5 (make 2, use yarn in MANE-COLOR) :

Round 1 :

magic ring of 8 sc - 8

Round 2 :

*2sc in next st, sc in next st* around - 12

Round 3 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 4 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 5 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 6 :

*inv_dec, sc in next 4 st* around - 10

Round 7 :

*inv_dec, sc in next 3 st* around - 8

Round 8 :

sc in next st, now flatten the opening so that the stitch you made last sits on the side; both side-stitches remain unworked; crochet the opening closed with: sc in next 3 stitch-pairs

Info :

fasten off & weave in yarn-end

β€” MANE-PART 3 & 4 (make 2, use yarn in MANE-COLOR) :

Round 1 :

magic ring of 8 sc - 8

Round 2 :

*2sc in next st, sc in next st* around - 12

Round 3 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 4 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 5 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 6 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 7 :

*inv_dec, sc in next 4 st* around - 10

Round 8 :

*inv_dec, sc in next 3 st* around - 8

Round 9 :

sc in next st, now flatten the opening so that the stitch you made last sits on the side; both side-stitches remain unworked; crochet the opening closed with: sc in next 3 stitch-pairs

Info :

fasten off & weave in yarn-end

β€” EAR (make 2, use yarn in BODY-COLOR) :

Round 1 :

magic ring of 6 sc - 6

Round 2 :

*2sc in next st, sc in next 2 st* around - 8

Round 3 :

*2sc in next st, sc in next 3 st* around - 10

Round 4 :

*2sc in next st, sc in next 4 st* around - 12

Round 5 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 6 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 7 :

now flatten the opening so that the stitch you made last sits on the side; both side-stitches remain unworked; crochet the opening closed with: sc in next 5 stitch-pairs

Info :

fasten off & weave in yarn-end

β€” HORSE/UNICORN (make 1, begin with yarn in BODY-COLOR) :

Round 1 :

magic ring of 6 sc - 6

Round 2 :

*2sc in next st* around - 12

Round 3 :

*2sc in next st, sc in next st* around - 18

Round 4 :

*2sc in next st, sc in next 2 st* around - 24

Info :

change of sequence; from here on there are 8 increases per round instead of 6

Round 5 :

*2sc in next st, sc in next 2 st* around - 32

Round 6 :

*2sc in next st, sc in next 3 st* around - 40

Round 7 :

sc in next 3 st, *2sc in next st, sc in next 4 st* x7, 2sc in next st, sc in next st - 48

Round 8 :

sc in next 3 st, *2sc in next st, sc in next 5 st* x7, 2sc in next st, sc in next 2 st - 56

Round 9 :

*2sc in next st, sc in next 6 st* around - 64

Round 10 :

in this round the arms, feet & tail-part 1 are crocheted to the body (β†’ see page 30 for details on crocheting body-parts to the body). sc in next 2 st, place the first arm on top of your work; the hoof's underside rests against the work, the "toes" pointing towards the magic ring; look at the round of front loops around the hoof's underside; find the gap between round's beginning and end; use two front loops on each side of that gap (the last two and first two stitches of that round); begin with the round's second to last front loop; guide your hook through the hoof's second to last front loop and from there through the next stitch on the body; push both stitches close together; you now have the first stitch-pair on your hook; crochet the first arm on with: sc in next 4 stitch-pairs, continue on body with: sc in next 16 st, now place the first foot in front of your work so that the "toes" are pointing towards you; crochet the first foot on with: sc in next 5 stitch-pairs, continue on body with: sc in next 2 st, crochet the second foot on with: sc in next 5 stitch-pairs, continue on body with: sc in next 15 st, crochet second arm on with: sc in next 4 stitch-pairs, continue on body with: sc in next 5 st, crochet tail-part 1 on with: sc in next 4 stitch-pairs, continue on body with: sc in next 2 st - 64

Info :

during the following rounds the remaining tail-parts are attached to the body; they need to be secured to the body later; for that you need to string the tail-parts on a piece of thread first; guide a longish piece of yarn (about 30 cm) through two stitches of the first tail part, between rounds 4 & 5 (counted from the base); pull the yarn halfway through and let it hang there for now; during the following rounds guide the yarn-ends through each newly attached tail-part; in the end the yarn-ends run through all of the tail-parts; see page 32 for details

Round 11 :

in this round tail-part 2 is crocheted to the body sc in next 16 st, inv_dec, sc in next 9 st, inv_dec, sc in next 9 st, inv_dec, sc in next 18 st, crochet tail-part 2 on with: sc in next 4 stitch-pairs, continue on body with: sc in next 2 st - 61

Info :

guide each of the first tail-part's yarn ends through stitches on the second tail part, between rounds 3 & 4 on the underside and let them come out between rounds 4 & 5 on the other side; let them come out between rounds 4 & 5; repeat with parts 3 and 4 later

Round 12 :

in this round tail-part 3 is crocheted to the body sc in next 55 st, crochet tail-part 3 on with: sc in next 4 stitch-pairs, continue on body with: sc in next 2 st - 61

Round 13 :

in this round tail-part 4 is crocheted to the body sc in next 55 st, crochet tail-part 4 on with: sc in next 4 stitch-pairs, continue on body with: sc in next 2 st - 61

Round 14 :

sc in next 16 st, inv_dec, sc in next 8 st, inv_dec, sc in next 8 st, inv_dec, sc in next 23 st - 58

Round 15 :

*sc in next st* around - 58

Round 16 :

*sc in next st* around - 58

Round 17 :

sc in next 16 st, inv_dec, sc in next 7 st, inv_dec, sc in next 7 st, inv_dec, sc in next 22 st - 55

Info :

during the next two rounds the pockets are crocheted to the body; it's similar to crocheting body-parts to the body with the difference that you place the pockets inside the body instead of placing them in front of it; ignore the prompts for the pockets if you don't want any; keep crocheting with single crochets until the round is complete

Round 18 :

in this round the first half of each of the two pockets is crocheted to the body (β†’ see page 33 for details) sc in next 10 st, place the first pocket inside the body; guide your hook through the next stitch of the body and from there through one of the stitches of the pocket; partially crochet the first pocket on with: sc in next 7 stitch-pairs, continue on body with: sc in next 16 st, partially crochet the second pocket on with: sc in next 7 stitch-pairs, continue on body with: sc in next 15 st - 55

Round 19 :

in this round the second half of the pockets is crocheted to the body sc in next 10 st, continue on pocket with: sc in next 7 st, continue on body with: sc in next 16 st, continue on second pocket with: sc in next 7 st, continue on body with: sc in next 15 st - 55

Round 20 :

sc in next 16 st, inv_dec, sc in next 6 st, inv_dec, sc in next 6 st, inv_dec, sc in next 21 st - 52

Round 21 :

*sc in next st* around - 52

Round 22 :

*sc in next st* around - 52

Round 23 :

sc in next 16 st, inv_dec, sc in next 5 st, inv_dec, sc in next 5 st, inv_dec, sc in next 20 st - 49

Round 24 :

*sc in next st* around - 49

Round 25 :

*sc in next st* around - 49

Round 26 :

sc in next 16 st, inv_dec, sc in next 4 st, inv_dec, sc in next 4 st, inv_dec, sc in next 19 st - 46

Round 27 :

in this round the end of the first arm is crocheted to the body sc in next 36 st, crochet the arm on with: sc in next 4 stitch-pairs, continue on body with: sc in next 6 st - 46

Round 28 :

in this round the second arm is crocheted to the body sc in next 5 st, crochet the arm on with: sc in next 4 stitch-pairs, continue on body with: sc in next 37 st - 46

Info :

secure the tail-parts to the body (β†’ see page 34); untie the knot (if you made one) and guide the prepared yarn-ends from the tail-parts through two stitches of the body; use stitches between round 6 & 7 (counted from the body's opening); make sure the tail-parts sit upright and centered between the arms; pull the yarn-ends tight on the body's inside and check the tail's position; if it looks good secure the yarn-ends with several knots on the body's inside

Round 29 :

sc in next 16 st, inv_dec, sc in next 3 st, inv_dec, sc in next 3 st, inv_dec, sc in next 18 st - 43

Round 30 :

in this round the jaw is crocheted to the body (β†’ see page 35) sc in next 18 st, place the jaw in front of the body so that the back side is facing towards you and the straight side with the two marked stitches is lined up with the stitches of the body; begin crocheting in the first of the marked stitches; leave the markers in until next round is done; crochet the jaw partially on with: sc in next 7 stitch-pairs (don't use the slip stitch in the middle for crocheting but the stitch the slip stitch sits in instead), continue on body with: sc in next 5 st, *2sc in next st, sc in next 2 st* x3, sc in next 4 st - 46

Round 31 :

sc in next 6 st, *2sc in next st, sc in next 2 st* x3, sc in next 3 st, now continue along the jaw with: (begin in the free stitch next to the one with the marker) 2sc in next st, sc in next 3 st, *2sc in next st, sc in next st* x2, *sc in next st, 2sc in next st* x2, sc in next 3 st, 2sc in next st, (the markers can now be removed) continue on body with: sc in next 6 st, *2sc in next st, sc in next 3 st* x3, sc in next 3 st - 67

Info :

stuff the body; put a handful of heavy filling (e.g. pea gravel, sand, marbles...) into a small freezer bag; close the bag and place it inside the Horse's body, towards the front; make sure the front stays flat, don't force it to bulge out; fill the rest with soft stuffing; make sure there are no dents left on the body, especially in the back where the tail-parts are attached

Round 32 :

sc in next 6 st, *2sc in next st, sc in next 3 st* x3, sc in next 49 st - 70

Round 33 :

*sc in next st* around - 70

Round 34 :

*sc in next st* around - 70

Round 35 :

at the end of this round the stitch-marker is set back by one stitch; leave the last stitch unworked because of that; sc in next 23 st, *inv_dec* x2, sc in next 16 st, *inv_dec* x2, sc in next 5 st, *inv_dec, sc in next 3 st* x3, sc in next 2 st, leave the last stitch unworked - 63; remove the stitch-marker

Round 36 :

during this round two stitches are marked with additional markers; these positions are later needed for the nostrils; first put the round's stitch-marker in the first of the following stitches: sc in next 5 st, *inv_dec, sc in next 3 st* x3, sc in next 29 st (mark here stitches #10 & 20 with additional markers), *inv_dec, sc in next 2 st* x2, sc in next 6 st - 58

Round 37 :

in this round the first mane-part is crocheted to the body; also two more stitches for the nostrils are marked; crochet mane-part 1 on with: sc in next 3 stitch-pairs, continue on body with: sc in next 5 st, *inv_dec, sc in next 2 st* x2, sc in next 9 st, inv_dec, sc in next 9 st (mark stitches #2 & 9), inv_dec, sc in next 20 st - 54

Round 38 :

in this round the second mane-part is crocheted to the body crochet mane-part 2 on with: sc in next 3 stitch-pairs, continue on body with: sc in next 20 st, inv_dec, sc in next 7 st, inv_dec, sc in next 20 st - 52

Assembly Instructions

  • Crochet the arms, feet and tail-part 1 onto the body during round 10 by aligning front loops on the hoof/toe pieces to the body front-loop pairs and crocheting them on with the specified number of stitch-pairs.
  • When attaching tail-parts (rounds 11-13) guide a long piece of yarn through the tail-part pieces first so you can position and secure them later from the body’s inside, then crochet each tail-part onto the body as instructed.
  • Place pockets inside the body when prompted (rounds 18-19) and crochet them on by guiding your hook through a body stitch and a pocket stitch; finish the second halves in the next round to fully secure them.
  • Sew or crochet the jaw to the body in round 30-31 aligning the marked stitches; keep markers in place until the jaw is secured and the following round is completed.
  • After the body is closed, pull yarn-ends of tail-parts tight on the inside and tie several knots to secure tail parts; trim and weave in ends neatly so they stay hidden inside the body.

Important Notes

  • πŸ’‘Use stitch markers to keep track of your rounds and marked stitches, especially during attachment rounds and when marking nostril or mane positions.
  • πŸ’‘Stuff firmly but not too tightly; use a small freezer bag with heavy filling inside the front of the body to keep the phone stand stable and flat.
  • πŸ’‘Work with a 3.0 mm hook and DK yarn (or two strands of sport yarn) to match the gauge and final size shown in the pattern.
  • πŸ’‘Guide yarn-ends as instructed for tail-parts so you can secure them from inside the body later; do not cut them off until tail attachment is complete.

This phone stand pattern turns a simple amigurumi into a practical desk friend that holds your phone with style. The detailed rounds and attachment steps make assembly straightforward and long-lasting. Make a horse or a colorful unicorn β€” they both look delightful on your shelf or as a handmade gift. 🧢✨

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FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

With the recommended yarn (DK or two strands of sport) and a 3.0 mm hook, the finished figure is approximately 15 cm wide & 17 cm tall (without horn).

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, but different yarn weights will change the final size; use an appropriate hook and expect a smaller result with lighter yarn or larger, chunkier version with heavier yarn.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate and assumes familiarity with single crochet, increases, invisible decreases and working in rounds; knowledge of attaching pieces to the body is helpful.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crafters finish this pattern in about 12-15 hours depending on experience and how much time you spend on finishing and assembly.