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MIMOSA BABY Amigurumi Pattern

MIMOSA BABY Amigurumi Pattern
4.0β˜… Rating
12-15 Hours Time Needed
1.5K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Multi-Day Project

A rewarding 12+ hour journeyβ€”perfect for dedicated crafters who love detailed work.

🧸

Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

About This MIMOSA BABY Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern creates a sweet Mimosa Baby amigurumi with detailed head shaping, embroidered eyes, and wearable clothes. It combines crocheting and hand embroidery techniques for realistic eyes and facial features. You will build the doll in pieces (head, arms, legs, body) and assemble them for a polished finish.

MIMOSA BABY Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Includes step-by-step eye processing instructions and row-by-row stitch counts for every piece. Photos and notes guide placement and finishing for realistic expressions and neat assembly.

Why You'll Love This MIMOSA BABY Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it blends crochet shaping with hand-stitched facial details to create a doll with real personality. I enjoy the eye embroidery steps β€” they let you make unique expressions with thread. The carefully written rows and filling tips helped me achieve consistent limbs and a balanced silhouette. I appreciate how the pattern guides placement and finishing so the final result looks professional and keepable.

MIMOSA BABY Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress MIMOSA BABY Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress MIMOSA BABY Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories MIMOSA BABY Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how easy it is to customize this pattern by changing colors; try pastel tones for a baby look or bright shades for a playful character.

I often change yarn weight and hooks to alter the size β€” using a thinner yarn and smaller hooks creates a mini version suitable for keychains.

I sometimes add wire to the arms and neck for posability; bend the wire carefully and hide it inside the stuffing for a neat finish.

If you want a different hairstyle, swap the provided hair yarn for boucle or mohair and adjust the rooting technique for softness or volume.

You can embroider different eye expressions by changing pupil size and eyelash placement to make sleepy, joyful, or surprised faces.

For clothing variations, adapt the dress recipe to make a sweater, overalls, or a hooded coat; add buttons, pockets, or crochet appliques for personality.

I like to add small accessories like a crocheted bag or tiny toy; use leftover yarn and small buttons to craft complementary pieces quickly.

To make the doll more durable for play, reinforce seams with an extra pass of whipstitch and use secure knots when attaching limbs and hair.

Experiment with surface crochet or embroidery to add freckles, beauty marks, or decorative stitching on clothes for a unique look.

I recommend testing a small swatch when switching yarn types to check tension and final size, then adjust hook size and stuffing amount to match the original proportions.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

βœ— Skipping marking the start of rounds during head shaping causes lost stitch counts; place a stitch marker at the start of each round and move it as you go. βœ— Not stuffing as you go results in lumps and uneven shaping; stuff gradually every 4-6 rows and shape while filling to maintain the correct silhouette. βœ— Carrying loose threads across the piece creates messy surface loops; when changing or breaking yarn, weave in or secure ends and trim each piece before continuing to the next step. βœ— Rushing the eye embroidery can create uneven pupils and gaps; follow the marking and basting steps carefully and complete the two-stage tour for a clean, oval pupil. βœ— Overtightening decreases causes distorted shaping at the neck and limbs; keep a consistent, moderate tension when decreasing and adjust stuffing to preserve roundness.

MIMOSA BABY Amigurumi Pattern

Make a charming Mimosa Baby amigurumi with this detailed crochet recipe. You will create a sweet doll with embroidered eyes, shaped limbs, and adorable clothing. The pattern walks you through head shaping, eye processing, limbs, and finishing touches so you can bring this character to life. Perfect for crafters who enjoy careful shaping and decorative embroidery.

Intermediate 12-15 Hours

Materials Needed for MIMOSA BABY Amigurumi Pattern

β€” Main Fabric

  • 01
    Peria Baby Soft Cotton skin color 17 - 2 pieces (main body/head/limbs)
  • 02
    Peria Baby Soft Cotton white 13 - 1 piece (white details and socks)
  • 03
    Schachenmayr Catania green 419 - 1 piece (shoes/accents)
  • 04
    Schachenmayr Catania purple 240 - 1 piece (dress)
  • 05
    Gazzal Baby Cotton lilac 3422 - 1 piece (dress/accents)
  • 06
    Trade Diva 55 - 1 piece (hair base or accents)
  • 07
    Paper rope dark straw - small length for bag strap or detailing
  • 08
    Viburnum etamine 840 for hair - 2 skeins
  • 09
    Domino cotton perle 8 light blue K0028 - small amount for eye details
  • 10
    Domino cotton perle 8 dark blue K00147 - small amount for eye details
  • 11
    Domino cotton perle 8 brown K0035 - small amount for eye/lip shading
  • 12
    Domino cotton perle 8 white - small amount for eye highlights
  • 13
    Domino cotton perle 8 black - small amount for pupil outlines
  • 14
    Orenbayan cotton perle pink 465 - small amount for lips/cheeks
  • 15
    Bead fiber / Polyester stuffing - for filling head and body
  • 16
    Paper rope/parachute rope/pacifier chain half meter for shoelaces and straps
  • 17
    70 cm 2.5 mm electrical wire to put in neck and arms (for structure, optional)
  • 18
    Dry crayon for make-up and aging (shading the face and features)

β€” Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size 2.00 mm
  • 02
    Crochet hook size 2.20 mm
  • 03
    Skewer size 2.5 (for hair placement and details)
  • 04
    Etamine and quilt needles for embroidery
  • 05
    Beading needle for tiny details
  • 06
    Scissors
  • 07
    Yarn needle for sewing and weaving ends
  • 08
    Stitch markers
  • 09
    Polyester stuffing (bead fiber)
  • 10
    Pins for positioning pieces during assembly
  • 11
    Pacifier chain or parachute rope for shoelaces and straps
  • 12
    70 cm 2.5 mm electrical wire for neck and arm structure (optional)
  • 13
    Dry crayon for shading and makeup

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

β€” Head :

Round 1 :

Start with skin color. 6x into the magic ring

Round 2 :

6v (12)

Round 3 :

(x, v)*6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2x,v)*6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3x,v)*6 (30)

Round 6 :

(4x,v)*6 (36)

Round 7 :

(5x,v)*6 (42)

Round 8 :

(6x,v)*6 (48)

Round 9 :

(7x,v)*6 (54)

Round 10 :

(8x,v)*6 (60)

Round 11 :

(9x,v)*6 (66)

Round 12 :

(10x,v)*6 (72)

Round 13-27 :

Rows 13-27 (15 rows):72x

Info :

***Go to eye processing. After the eye embroidery is finished, the head will continue to be knitted.

β€” Eye Processing :

Info :

Identifying eye locations: Align with the third increment loop of the head in the 12th row and place a marker between the 21st and 22nd rows with a pin. This is the midpoint between the two eyes. Make a mark with a pin by counting 6 sc to the right of the pin and 5 to the left of the pin. Remove the pins by placing dots in the designated places with the flying pen. Pupils will be embroidered on the marked places.

Round 1 :

one- Draw a circle with a flying pencil so that the diameter of the pupils corresponds to two single needles. Attach a single layer of black domino thread to the needle. Complete the first step by basting the circumference of the circle from the multiples of the frequent needles. In the second stage, complete the tour as in the image by passing from the outside to the inside under each of the stitches you have worked on.

Round 2 :

2- Remove the needle from the upper part of the eye and pass under the opposite stitches to fill the pupil. Process horizontally all the way down, taking care not to overlap the threads while embroidering.

Round 3 :

3- Draw the iris of the eye in a circle, leaving a single needle around the pupil. Starting from the upper part of the eye with dark blue thread, embroider around the iris by basting from the fold of the loops. Complete the round as in the image by passing under each of the stitches you have embroidered from the outside to the inside.

Round 4 :

4- Process one more round into the iris.

Round 5 :

5- Embroider the upper half of the iris with another round of dark blue thread. ***The remaining half will be embroidered with light blue thread.

Round 6 :

6- With a double layer of light blue thread, embroider the half part under the pupil. ***The width and length of the iris is 4 sc. Process the other iris in the same way. If there are gaps in the processed areas, retouch the gaps by sinking into the head.

Round 7 :

7- To embroider the white part of the eye, draw a circle starting from the bottom row of the inner part of the eye and ending at the highest point of the outer part of the eye, as in the image. The part of the circle on the nose side of the eye should be the width of a single needle, expand a little more towards the outer part, and taper a little more towards the top. ***Take care to draw in the same way, taking into account the drawings in the image.

Round 8 :

8- Complete the first step by basting around the circle you have drawn, starting from the top. At the end of the first stage, remove the needle from the starting point and complete the tour by doing the second stage.

Round 9 :

9- Do one more round in the same way.

Round 10 :

10- Since the upper white part of the eye is full, start the new round from the untreated area and process one more round. ***If there are 3 rounds of processing on the white part, but there are still empty spaces, one more round can be made or the empty spaces can be retouched.

Round 11 :

11th- A round will be made with the same technique between the blue and white part of the eye with the black rope. ***Process the other eye in the same way.

Info :

Lash bottom line: one- Sink into the second row from the bottom of the outer part of the eye. Baste up to the corner of the eye. Complete the tour by sinking in from the eye spring and leaving the starting point and embroidering over the basting stitches.

Round 12 :

Eyelash: one- Come out from the upper row of the lower line of the eyelash as in the image and sink into the root of the eyelash. Repeat the same action on the same eyelash. 2- Determine the places of the other eyelashes as in the image. The technique of processing eyelashes is as follows. First, a small eyelash will be processed by sinking further than the point you have determined. Then, insert the needle under the small eyelash and exit from the point you have determined and sink into the root of the eyelash. Complete the other eyelashes with this technique.

Round 13 :

Eye shimmer: Attach two layers of white thread to the quilt needle. Process both eyes in the same way as in the pictures. ***Eye processing is finished. The head will continue to be knitted.

Round 28-30 :

Row 28-30 (3 rows):72x

Round 31 :

Row 31:2x, a, (10x,a)*5, 8x (66)

Round 32 :

Row 32:5x, a, (9x,a)*5, 4x (60)

Round 33 :

Row 33:(8x,a)*6 (54)

Round 34 :

Row 34:2x, a, (7x,a)*5, 5x (48)

Round 35 :

Row 35:5x, a, (6x,a)*5, x (42)

Info :

***You fill the head.

Round 38 :

Row 38:2x, a, (5x,a)*5, 3x (36)

Round 39 :

Row 39:(4x,a)*6 (30)

Round 40 :

Row 40:(3x,a)*6 (24)

Info :

***You fill the head. While filling the head, fill it as round as possible without disturbing its form. If you fill to the sides after the filling process is finished, the head will be more rounded.

Round 41 :

Row 41:(x,a)*8, sl st (16)

Info :

***Head done, cut the rope.

β€” Nose / Eyebrow / Lips :

Info :

Nose: It will be embroidered by leaving two single needles spaced, two rows below the eye, coinciding with the middle level of the two eyes. Separate the yarn into layers. Process the nose by sinking in and out 4-5 times as in the image.

Info :

Eyebrow: Embroider the eyebrows one row above the lashes, leaving 9 single needles with a width of 5 sc between the two eyebrows. Follow the images.

Round 1 :

Lips: Determine the place of the lip with pins, leaving 3 single needles down the nose, and 3 frequent needles. Attach the thread to the needle in two layers. To embroider the lip, the triangle shape will be created. Enter through the neck space and exit from the designated point on the left. Dive into the middle of the lip in the upper row and exit from the determined point on the right. To form the other side of the triangle, sink to the upper point and exit the neck space. Enter from the left of the lip and enter from the right and exit the neck cavity. LIP PROCESSING YOUTUBE LINK:https://youtu.be/Q3ZyjkKUoHQ

Round 2 :

1st round: Lip shaping will be created by wrapping the triangle. Insert the needle under the thread and exit from the top to embroider. Starting from the top left edge, loop the rope 5 times. Take care not to overlap the yarn and to keep it regularly side by side. Do the same to the right side of the upper lip. Complete the round by wrapping the bottom edge 6-7 times.

Round 3 :

2nd round: In the second round, if you make 3-4 loops on the outer lips and the loops on the lips towards the middle part, it will stop. Intensity of 4 to the lower lip, middle of the lower lip. ***Lip fullness can be increased upon request.

β€” Arm :

Round 1 :

Start with skin color. Row 1:6x into the magic ring

Round 2 :

Row 2:2v, x, 2v, x (10)

Round 3 :

Row 3:2x, v, 4x, v, 2x (12)

Round 4 :

Row 4:3x, v, 5x, v, 2x (14)

Round 5 :

Row 5:4x, v, 9x (15)

Round 6-8 :

Row 6-8 (3 rows):15x (15)

Round 9 :

Row 9:4x, a, 6x, a, x (13)

Round 10 :

Row 10:11x (12)

Round 11-36 :

Rows 11-36 (26 rows):12x, sl st, done break the thread. ***The arms will not be filled with fibers. Knit the other arm in the same way.

β€” Foot Recipe :

Round 1 :

Start with tan yarn. Row1:9ch check. Starting from 2ch, into the first loop 2x, 6x, into the same loop 3x, 7x (18)

Round 2 :

Row 2:v, 8x, v, 8x (20)

Round 3-10 :

Rows 3-10 (8 rows):20x

Round 11 :

Row 11:3x, 7ch and skip 9x, 8x

Round 12 :

Row 12:3x, 7x on 7 chain, 8x (18)

Round 13 :

Row 13:(x,a)*6 (12)

Round 14 :

Row 14:6a, the heel is over, leave a long rope to collect the heel and break the rope. ***Gather the needle and 6 sc needles from the flo loops, tighten them well, knot the thread inside the foot and hide it. ***The foot is over, the leg will be passed. Knit the other foot in the same way.

β€” Left leg recipe :

Info :

***While filling, the left foot and leg should always be filled to the left of the leg, creating a protruding image on the calf and carefully filling. If the filling in the feet and legs is not done carefully and regularly, the distorted and protruding appearance of the heels, calves and knees may not be available.

Round 1 :

Row 1:We turn the back of the foot and pull the 7th loop, attach the thread to the 4th loop, 4x on the chain, one sc in the gap between the front part and the sole, 9x in the front, one sc in the gap between the front part and the sole, 3x on the chain (18)

Round 2 :

Row 2:4x, a, float 7x, a, 3x (16)

Round 3-6 :

Rows 3-6 (4 rows):16x

Round 7 :

Row 7:v, 15x (17)

Round 8 :

Row 8:17x

Round 9 :

Row 9:x, v, 15x (18)

Round 10 :

Row 10:18x

Round 11 :

Row 11:2x, v, 15x (19)

Round 12 :

Row 12:3x, v, 15x (20)

Round 13 :

Row 13:20x

Round 14 :

Row 14:4x, v, 15x (21)

Round 15 :

Row 15:21x

Round 16 :

Row 16:5x, v, 15x (22)

Round 17 :

Row 17:22x

Round 18 :

Row 18:6x, v, 15x (23)

Round 19-23 :

Rows 19-23 (5 rows):23x

Round 24 :

Row 24:5x, a, x, a, 13x (21)

Round 25 :

Row 25:21x

Round 26 :

Row 26:4x, a, x, a, 12x (19)

Round 27 :

Row 27:5x, a, 7x, 4v, 3x (22)

Info :

***The 27th row is the 4v kneecap. If there is a shift in the raises due to the hand difference, you can scroll the knee raises. Change the head of the line accordingly and continue with the recipe.

Round 28 :

Row 28:22x

Round 29 :

Row 29:13x, 4a, x (18)

Round 30 :

Row 30:4x, v, x, v, 11x (20)

Round 31 :

Row 31:20x

Round 32 :

Row 32:6x, v, 13x (21)

Round 33 :

Row 33:21x

Round 34 :

Row 34:7x, v, x, v, 11x (23)

Round 35 :

Row 35:23x

Round 36 :

Row 36:8x, v, 14x (24)

Round 37 :

Row 37:24x

Round 38 :

Row 38:9x, v, 14x (25)

Round 39 :

Row 39:25x

Round 40 :

Row 40:10x, v, 14x (26)

Round 41 :

Row 41:26x

Round 42 :

Row 42:11x, v, 14x (27)

Round 43 :

Row 43:27x

Round 44 :

Row 44:12x, v, 14x (28)

Round 45 :

Row 45:4x with tan, 24x with white thread (28) ***White rope is used for the leg part of the shorts.

Round 46 :

Row 46:28x

Round 47 :

Row 47:4x, sl st, finish, break the thread. Left leg done.

β€” Right leg recipe :

Info :

***When filling, the right foot and leg should always be filled to the right of the leg to create a protruding image on the calf. The right leg is knitted with the same recipe as the left leg until the 26th row. The difference in appearance in the two lower legs is all about filling.

Round 1 :

Row 1:We turn the back of the foot and pull the 7th loop, attach the thread to the 4th loop, 4x on the chain, one sc in the gap between the front part and the sole, 9x in the front, one sc in the gap between the front part and the sole, 3x on the chain (18)

Round 2 :

Row 2:4x, a, float 7x, a, 3x (16)

Round 3-6 :

Rows 3-6 (4 rows):16x

Round 7 :

Row 7:v, 15x (17)

Round 8 :

Row 8:17x

Round 9 :

Row 9:x, v, 15x (18)

Round 10 :

Row 10:18x

Round 11 :

Row 11:2x, v, 15x (19)

Round 12 :

Row 12:3x, v, 15x (20)

Round 13 :

Row 13:20x

Round 14 :

Row 14:4x, v, 15x (21)

Round 15 :

Row 15:21x

Round 16 :

Row 16:5x, v, 15x (22)

Round 17 :

Row 17:22x

Round 18 :

Row 18:6x, v, 15x (23)

Round 19-23 :

Rows 19-23 (5 rows):23x

Round 24 :

Row 24:5x, a, x, a, 13x (21)

Round 25 :

Row 25:21x

Round 26 :

Row 26:4x, a, x, a, 12x (19)

Round 27 :

Row 27:5x, a, 7x, 4v, x (22)

Round 28 :

Row 28:22x

Round 29 :

Row 29:13x, 4a, x (18)

Round 30 :

Row 30:4x, v, x, v, 11x (20)

Round 31 :

Row 31:20x

Round 32 :

Row 32:6x, v, 13x (21)

Round 33 :

Row 33:21x

Round 34 :

Row 34:7x, v, x, v, 11x (23)

Round 35 :

Row 35:23x

Round 36 :

Row 36:8x, v, 14x (24)

Round 37 :

Row 37:24x

Round 38 :

Row 38:9x, v, 14x (25)

Round 39 :

Row 39:25x

Assembly Instructions

  • Attach the head to the body by aligning the neck opening and sewing evenly with a whipstitch; use the long tail left at the end of the head to secure it and weave in ends.
  • Position safety/embroidered eyes using the marked locations: midpoint between rows 21-22, with 6 sc to the right and 5 sc to the left; baste and embroider pupils before fastening the head to the body.
  • Sew arms to the sides of the body between the designated rounds, aligning the top of the arm with the shoulder row and securing firmly with small mattress stitches to prevent sagging.
  • Attach legs to the bottom of the body by spacing them evenly and sewing through the first few rounds of each leg into the base of the body; reinforce with an internal knot and weave in the ends.
  • Pin and sew clothing elements (dress, pockets, straps) in place after the doll is assembled, checking symmetry in photos and adjusting button placement as specified (7 6mm white buttons for front of dress, 1 8mm purple for back).

Important Notes

  • πŸ’‘After the row that ends with sl st, when you rise by pulling 1 or 2 chains at the beginning of the row and make x or DC, it is first dipped into the loop at the bottom of the chain.
  • πŸ’‘When the leg and arm are finished, sl st is done to close them; when knitting on the finished piece, these sl sts are accepted as frequent needles and frequent needles are made on it.
  • πŸ’‘If you carry the threads that we break off at the end of the row and attach to remove the loop, while knitting the row, you will provide a neat appearance.
  • πŸ’‘Fill the pieces you have knitted in 5-6 rows; tightly and pay attention to homogeneous filling for correct shaping of calves, knees and shoulders.
  • πŸ’‘The baby's height is around 35cm, and the size may change depending on the hand difference and yarn tension; tighter knitting yields smaller result, so adjust filling accordingly.

This Mimosa Baby pattern brings a lovable, handcrafted doll to life with detailed shaping, embroidered eyes, and cozy clothing. 🧢 Follow the step-by-step rows and eye-processing guide to create a polished, expressive face that makes each doll unique. ✨ Enjoy making a special keepsake for yourself or a thoughtful handmade gift! 🧡

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The finished amigurumi measures approximately 35 cm tall when using the recommended yarns, hooks, and following the stuffing and shaping guidance in the pattern.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can use different yarn weights but the final size and stitch counts will change; choose an appropriate hook for your yarn and expect to adjust filling and structural wire accordingly.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate and requires familiarity with amigurumi basics (magic ring, increases/decreases) and some hand embroidery skills for the eye processing.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crocheters complete this project in 12-15 hours, depending on experience level, embroidery work, and time spent on assembly and finishing.

Are there video resources for eye and lip processing?

Yes, eye processing and lip processing video links are provided in the pattern to help you with the embroidery stages for realistic results.