🧶 Beautiful ✨ Detailed 💝 Adorable

Crochet Frog Door-Stopper Pattern

Crochet Frog Door-Stopper Pattern
4.4★ Rating
5-7 Hours Time Needed
1.6K Made This
✂️

Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

🧸

Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

About This Crochet Frog Door-Stopper Pattern

This pattern creates a weighted crochet frog door-stopper with a separate head, body, neck, arms, legs, eyes and tongue. It uses worsted weight yarn and simple amigurumi techniques to shape the frog with increases and decreases. The design includes a bead bag or stuffing beads for weight so the frog will sit securely as a door-stopper.

Crochet Frog Door-Stopper Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

You will work each piece in rounds and sew the parts together to finish; full assembly steps are provided. Photos and notes guide placement of eyes, tongue and button/cardboard for a flat mouth.

Why You'll Love This Crochet Frog Door-Stopper Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it combines playful design with practical function — a frog that actually holds a door open! I enjoy the shaping process and how simple increases and decreases transform a ball of yarn into a rounded body and expressive head. The use of a bead bag for weight makes it satisfyingly sturdy, and I delight in adding small finishing touches like the tongue and button mouth. This pattern sparks creativity and is perfect for making gifts that are both useful and adorable.

Crochet Frog Door-Stopper Pattern step 1 - construction progress Crochet Frog Door-Stopper Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Crochet Frog Door-Stopper Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Crochet Frog Door-Stopper Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how easy it is to customize this frog by changing yarn colors — try lime or mint green for a fresh look or variegated yarn for a playful finish.

If you want a larger or smaller frog, change yarn weight and hook size: bulky yarn makes a chunky door-stopper, while sport weight creates a daintier version.

I sometimes swap safety eyes for embroidered eyes for a softer child-friendly version or add eyelids using a contrasting yarn for personality.

You can replace the bead bag with heavier weights such as small pebbles in a sealed bag for more holding power, just ensure the bag is double-secured inside a nylon stocking.

I like to embellish with tiny felt patches or embroider spots on the back to create a spotted frog — it adds character and is fun to personalize.

Try making the tongue curl differently: a flatter tongue, a longer spiral, or even a small felt tongue for texture change.

I often add a removable ribbon bow around the neck to make the frog a seasonal gift — switch ribbons for holidays.

For a posable feel, you could thread thin craft wire inside the arms and legs before stuffing, but be careful with safety if it will be handled by children.

If you prefer a weighted base only, insert the bead bag into just the body and leave the head lighter for a top-heavy, nodding look.

I recommend testing safety eye sizes and mouth button options on a scrap before attaching to find the expression you love most.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping the insertion of the bead bag or stuffing beads before closing the head will make adding weight difficult later; insert the bead bag when the opening is still large and secure it before finishing the decrease. ✗ Forgetting to change yarn color exactly where instructed can make the mouth or head edge look uneven; change color at the specified round and pull the new color through cleanly to keep a neat edge. ✗ Not working the designated back loop only (BLO) row causes a different texture for the mouth opening; make sure to work BLO on the specified row to achieve the intended rim for the mouth. ✗ Attaching eyes without checking placement may give an unbalanced look; position and pin the eyes first, check symmetry, then insert and secure the safety eyes. ✗ Overstuffing early and not shaping while decreasing can cause lumps; stuff gradually while decreasing and shape as you go to maintain a smooth curved form.

Crochet Frog Door-Stopper Pattern

Make a playful crochet frog door-stopper that doubles as a charming home accent and a functional weight. This pattern guides you through each round with clear instructions so you can create a sturdy, weighted frog with a removable neck and expressive face. Perfect for gifting or adding a handmade touch to your room, the design uses basic amigurumi techniques and simple shaping.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Crochet Frog Door-Stopper Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Worsted weight yarn (#4) - Green: one full skein is plenty for body and parts
  • 02
    Worsted weight yarn (#4) - Black: very small amount for mouth circle
  • 03
    Worsted weight yarn (#4) - White: small amount for eyes
  • 04
    Worsted weight yarn (#4) - Red: very little amount for tongue
  • 05
    Safety eyes - 10 mm (2 pieces)
  • 06
    Polyester stuffing - enough to fill head and body
  • 07
    Stuffing beads (bean bag pellets) - for weight (amount to fill bead bag for door-stopper)
  • 08
    Nylon stocking or small mesh bag - to hold stuffing beads

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size G (4.0 mm)
  • 02
    Safety eyes 10 mm (2 pieces)
  • 03
    Scissors
  • 04
    Yarn needle for sewing
  • 05
    Stitch markers
  • 06
    Polyester stuffing
  • 07
    Stuffing beads (for weight)
  • 08
    Nylon stocking or mesh bag for beads
  • 09
    Measuring tape
  • 10
    2 round buttons, size 2 1/4" OR thick cardboard cut to that size to use in mouth

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— Top of Head :

Round 1 :

With black yarn, use the magic circle method if you choose OR chain 2 and single crochet 6 in first chain space (6)

Round 2 :

(increase row) sc 2x in each stitch from row one *inc x 6* around (12)

Round 3 :

(increase row) sc 2x in first stitch then (once) 1sc in next stitch, *inc then 1sc* around (18)

Round 4 :

(increase row) sc 2x in first stitch then 1sc in next 2 stitches *inc, 1sc, 1sc* around (24)

Round 5 :

(increase row) sc 2x in first stitch then 1sc in next 3 stitches *inc, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc * around (30)

Info :

CHANGE TO GREEN YARN

Round 6 :

BACK LOOP for this row only sc around each stitch (no increasing) (30)

Round 7 :

sc around each stitch (no increasing) (30)

Round 8 :

sc around each stitch (no increasing) (30)

Round 9 :

sc around each stitch (no increasing) (30)

Round 10 :

sc around each stitch (no increasing) (30)

Round 11 :

sc around each stitch (no increasing) (30)

Info :

insert button here or cutout cardboard piece to keep flat - secure it if you choose, I secured my button by sewing it on with the final knot inside so you can't see it from the outside

Round 12 :

(decrease row) 1sc in next 2 stitches then decrease *1sc, 1sc, dec * x 7 sc in last 2 stitches (23)

Round 13 :

(decrease row) 1sc in next 2 stitches then decrease *1sc, 1sc, dec * x 5 dec and 1sc in last 3 stitches (17)

Round 14 :

sc around each stitch (no dec / inc) (17)

Info :

insert bead bag here for weight before it gets too small of an opening **you will be putting regular stuffing to finish off the "stuffing of the head" after the bean bag. Keep stuffing as we decrease. If your stitching is loose and you see the white stuffing or bean bag, you can also use the same colour green yarn to stuff it. We are not using too much yarn so it's not a big expense to use yarn to stuff the head**

Round 15 :

(decrease row) decrease then 1sc *dec and 1sc * x 5 then one more decrease (11)

Round 16 :

(decrease row) decrease x 5 then sc in last stitch *dec x5 * then 1sc (6)

Round 17 :

cinch last 6 stitches together tightly and finish off

— Bottom of Head :

Round 1 :

With black yarn, use the magic circle method if you choose OR chain 2 and single crochet 6 in first chain space (6)

Round 2 :

(increase row) sc 2x in each stitch from row one *inc x 6* around (12)

Round 3 :

(increase row) sc 2x in first stitch then (once) 1sc in next stitch, *inc then 1sc* around (18)

Round 4 :

(increase row) sc 2x in first stitch then 1sc in next 2 stitches *inc, 1sc, 1sc* around (24)

Round 5 :

(increase row) sc 2x in first stitch then 1sc in next 3 stitches *inc, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc * around (30)

Info :

CHANGE TO GREEN YARN

Round 6 :

BACK LOOP for this row only sc around each stitch (no increasing) (30)

Round 7 :

sc around each stitch (no increasing) (30)

Round 8 :

sc around each stitch (no increasing) (30)

Round 9 :

sc around each stitch (no increasing) (30)

Info :

insert button / cardboard piece **I recommend using green yarn to stuff the remainder of the bottom of the head**

Round 10 :

(decrease row) *dec, 1sc * x 10 (20)

Round 11 :

(decrease row) *dec, 1sc * x 10 (10)

Round 12 :

cinch the remainder 10 stitches tightly, finish off

— Tongue :

Info :

using RED yarn

Item Name (P1) :

Chain 25, turn, 3sc in first chain from hook, sc in next chain, repeat until there is 5 chains remaining. SC in last 5 chains. Finish off

— Eyes :

Info :

using WHITE yarn, make 2

Round 1 :

using the magic circle OR chain 2 and sc x5 in first chain space

Round 2 :

(increase row) 2sc in each stitch (10)

Round 3 :

sc around (10)

Round 4 :

sc around (10)

Info :

finish off

Info :

INSERT safety eyes in the top of the eyes made. When using the chain 2 method you end up with a tiny "hole" in the top of the eyes perfect for inserting the safety eyes. No they are not too big for the safety eyes to fall out if secured properly

— Body of Frog :

Round 1 :

Using the magic circle method if you choose OR chain 2 and single crochet 6 in first chain space (6)

Round 2 :

(increase row) sc 2x in each stitch from row one *inc x 6* around (12)

Round 3 :

(increase row) sc 2x in first stitch then (once) 1sc in next stitch, *inc then 1sc* around (18)

Round 4 :

(increase row) sc 2x in first stitch then 1sc in next 2 stitches *inc, 1sc, 1sc* around (24)

Round 5 :

(increase row) sc 2x in first stitch then 1sc in next 3 stitches *inc, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc * around (30)

Round 6 :

(increase row) sc 2x in first stitch then 1sc in next 4 stitches *inc, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc * around (36)

Round 7 :

(increase row) sc 2x in first stitch then 1sc in next 5 stitches *inc, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc * around (42)

Round 8 :

(increase row) sc 2x in first stitch then 1sc in next 6 stitches *inc, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc * around (48)

Round 9 :

sc around (48)

Round 10 :

sc around (48)

Round 11 :

sc around (48)

Round 12 :

(decrease row) dec then 1sc in next 6 stitches *dec, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc * 6x (42)

Round 13 :

sc around (42)

Round 14 :

(decrease row) dec then 1sc in next 5 stitches *dec, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc * 6x (36)

Round 15 :

sc around (36)

Round 16 :

sc around (36)

Round 17 :

sc around (36)

Round 18 :

(decrease row) dec then 1sc in next 4 stitches *dec, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc * 6x (30)

Round 19 :

sc around (30)

Round 20 :

sc around (30)

Info :

** start stuffing body as we'll be decreasing more and more. You can also insert another bean bag here for weight as well. My stitching is on the tighter side so I didn't need to use yarn to stuff the body here. You can - it's ok **

Round 21 :

(decrease row) dec then 1sc in next 3 stitches *dec, 1sc, 1sc * 6x (24)

Round 22 :

(decrease row) dec then 1sc in next 2 stitches *dec, 1sc, 1sc * 6x (18)

Round 23 :

(decrease row) dec then 1sc *dec, 1sc * 6x (12)

Round 24 :

decrease around x 6 (6)

Round 25 :

cinch around last 6 stitches and finish off

— Arms and Legs :

Info :

make 2 of each - green yarn

Item Name (P1) :

Chain 21, turn

Item Name (P2) :

sc in chain closest to hook (20)

Item Name (P3) :

once at the end - do not finish off - chain 6 and slip stitch to the first chain, repeat that 3 more times to end up with 4 "finger / toes"

Item Name (P4) :

finish off after the 4th slip stitch. Sometimes there will be a small hole where you did you slip stitches, sew up with the yarn tails once you have finished off

— Neck :

Info :

green yarn (works out to approx 6" before folding)

Item Name (P1) :

Chain 27, turn

Item Name (P2) :

HDC starting in 2nd chain from hook (25)

Item Name (P3) :

HDC 4 more rows

Info :

Since the neck is constantly on the floor, I have made it this long so that I can fold over to make it thicker - sew up the sides; sewing up the bottom not so important as we will be attaching this to the body.

— Assembly :

First :

Sew the tongue to the back of the bottom of head. Sew it up to the centre of the black circle so it doesn't move that much

Second :

you will now be sewing the top and bottom parts of the head together. You will only sew it over 10 stitches as you want to make sure the, now mouth, works. Shown without the tongue attached as I was crazy before I put the head together and didn't sew the tongue in first - that's why I know you should and I've instructed you to do this :)

Third :

Attach eyes to top of head

Fourth :

Lets sew the legs onto the frog body. Place them on the bottom of the larger part of the body. As well, lets sew the neck onto the top of the body.

Fifth :

Sew the arms onto the neck. Place them about a half inch from the top of the neck as we still have to sew the neck and head together

Sixth :

We're here - lets sew the neck onto the bottom of the head - in the middle

Info :

WE ARE DONE !!

Assembly Instructions

  • Sew the tongue to the back of the bottom of the head and secure it up into the centre of the black mouth circle so it does not move.
  • Sew the top and bottom parts of the head together, sewing across only about 10 stitches to form the mouth opening and ensure it operates correctly.
  • Attach the eyes to the top of the head (insert safety eyes into the top of the eye pieces) and secure them firmly.
  • Sew the legs to the bottom of the larger section of the body, then sew the neck to the top of the body in the centre.
  • Fold the neck and sew the sides closed for thickness, then sew the arms onto the neck about a half inch from the top before joining the neck to the head.
  • Insert bead bags for weight into head and body openings before final decreases, stuff remainder with polyester stuffing, then cinch and finish off securely.

Important Notes

  • 💡Insert the bead bag (or stuffing beads) for weight before the opening gets too small; secure it inside a nylon stocking or mesh bag before finishing the decrease.
  • 💡Use stitch markers to mark the beginning of each round to keep accurate stitch counts, especially during increases and decreases.
  • 💡Work the specified BLO (back loop only) row for the mouth rim to get the correct texture and shape for the mouth opening.
  • 💡Position and pin eyes and other features before permanently attaching to check symmetry and placement.
  • 💡Stuff gradually while decreasing to maintain smooth shaping and avoid lumps in the head and body.

This crochet frog door-stopper brings playful charm and practical function to your home with a weighted body and expressive face. Follow the step-by-step rounds and assembly notes to create a sturdy, handmade accent that opens doors and hearts. Have fun customizing colors and details — happy crocheting! 🧶🐸

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The finished door-stopper measures approximately 9-12 inches long overall depending on yarn tension and how long you make the neck; body diameter will vary with stuffing and yarn but is designed for a standard worsted weight result.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can change yarn weight, but a heavier or lighter yarn will change final size and the amount of stuffing and bead weight needed; adjust hook size accordingly for best results.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate, so basic knowledge of single crochet, increases and decreases, working in rounds and simple assembly is recommended.

How do I add weight to make this an effective door-stopper?

Use a small nylon stocking or mesh bag filled with bean bag pellets or stuffing beads; insert this bead bag into the head or body when the opening is still large and cover it with regular stuffing before finishing decreases.

How are the eyes attached and secured?

Insert safety eyes into the top of the crocheted eye pieces before finishing; the chain-2 start often leaves a small hole ideal for the safety eye post; secure backs tightly and consider using washers if needed.