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Ball of (almost) any size Amigurumi Pattern

Ball of (almost) any size Amigurumi Pattern
4.3★ Rating
2-3 Hours Time Needed
2.0K Made This
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Beginner Friendly Level

Perfect for those just starting their crochet journey, with clear instructions and simple techniques

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Bite-Sized Project

Finishes in 2-4 hours—perfect for an afternoon of creative relaxation.

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Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

About This Ball of (almost) any size Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern shows you how to crochet simple spherical balls in any size by working a top circle, a middle section of plain rows, and a mirrored bottom. It includes a complete eight-row example with every round written out, plus instructions for smaller and larger sizes and how to calculate circumference from your yarn sample. The design uses basic dc (UK terminology) stitches and straightforward increases and decreases for clean shaping.

Ball of (almost) any size Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Perfect for making toy heads, play balls, beads, baubles, or components for amigurumi. The pattern is written in UK terms (dc = US sc) and encourages you to make a tension sample to calculate custom sizes.

Why You'll Love This Ball of (almost) any size Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it turns a sometimes fiddly shape into a simple, repeatable process using basic stitches. I enjoy how versatile it is — you can make tiny beads or large play balls just by changing yarn and rows. The method is mathematical but friendly, so once you understand the logic you can plan any size with confidence. I also love that it uses firm fabric techniques so the finished balls keep their shape and are great for kids or craft projects.

Ball of (almost) any size Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Ball of (almost) any size Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Ball of (almost) any size Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Ball of (almost) any size Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how easy it is to customize the size by changing yarn weight and hook size — try sport, DK, or Aran to see the difference.

For a firmer ball, I often use a hook one size smaller than recommended; it gives a tighter fabric and neater shape.

Want a plush, chunky ball? Use bulky yarn with a larger hook and add more middle rows for a squishier feel.

Try color changes in the middle section to make rings or stripes; change colours every few rows for a striped bauble effect.

I sometimes stuff a small rattle or bell inside larger balls to make toy balls that jingle — just ensure the noise-maker is secure and enclosed.

To make beaded necklaces, use very small or sport weight yarn and minimal stuffing, or cover wooden beads instead of stuffing.

For a snowman, combine three sizes, stack and join with sewing, and add felt accessories for eyes and scarf.

Embroidery on the middle section can add faces or patterns — try simple French knots or surface stitch for personality.

If you want a half-sphere for a bowl or hair, stop after the top circle and finish with a neat edge or edging rows.

I also experiment with textured stitches in the middle section for decorative balls — bobbles or popcorns add tactile interest if you like a non-smooth surface.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping a tension sample and not measuring your Unit Measurement; make a 15x10 or similar sample and measure six stitches to calculate sizes accurately. ✗ Overstuffing the ball which distorts the rounded shape and makes seams and stitches spread; stuff gradually, smoothing and redistributing stuffing as you go for an even surface. ✗ Forgetting to count stitches after increases or decreases which gives uneven circumference; count the stitches at the end of each shaping row to confirm the expected multiple of six. ✗ Using a hook that is too large for the yarn which produces a loose fabric and visible stuffing; use a smaller hook than recommended (one size smaller) for a firmer, neater ball.

Ball of (almost) any size Amigurumi Pattern

Make perfectly shaped crochet balls in almost any size using simple UK-style dc (US sc) stitches. This pattern gives full round-by-round instructions for an eight-row circle ball, explains how to scale up or down, and includes guidance on tension, yarn choices, and calculating how much yarn you need. Youll learn how to make neat spheres for toys, decorations, or craft projects with clear step-by-step guidance.

Beginner Friendly 2-3 Hours

Materials Needed for Ball of (almost) any size Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    PaintBox DK cotton (example used for main samples) - firm yarn, quantity depends on ball size
  • 02
    Catania (sport weight) - used for six-row sample balls, approximate Unit Measurement about 2cm
  • 03
    PaintBox cotton Aran - used with a 4mm hook for larger samples, Unit Measurement about 3cm
  • 04
    Use any firm yarn suitable for toys or balls; quantities vary by size (weigh sample to estimate)

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size 3.5mm (recommended for PaintBox DK example)
  • 02
    Crochet hook size 4mm (for Aran samples)
  • 03
    Crochet hook size 2.5mm (for sport weight samples and small details)
  • 04
    Large-eye needle (for finishing ends)
  • 05
    Scissors
  • 06
    Stitch markers (to mark round starts if desired)
  • 07
    Measuring tape or ruler (to measure Unit Measurement and finished circumferences)
  • 08
    Weighing scale (optional, to measure yarn usage)
  • 09
    Polyester stuffing or appropriate stuffing material
  • 10
    Pins for assembly (optional)

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— Top Section for an eight-row circle ball :

Info :

Note – repeat just the section in the brackets just before the word repeat! The bracket at the end is the number of stitches you should now have in the row – it is always a multiple of six.

Row 1 :

6 dc into a magic ring.

Row 2 :

2dc into each dc (12)

Row 3 :

(dc, 2dc in next dc) repeat 6 times (18)

Row 4 :

1 dc, 2dc in next dc, (2 dc, 2dc in next dc) repeat 5 times, 1 dc (24)

Row 5 :

(3 dc, 2dc in next dc) repeat 6 times (30)

Row 6 :

2 dc, 2dc in next dc, (4 dc, 2dc in next dc) repeat 5 times, 2 dc (36)

Row 7 :

(5 dc, 2dc in next dc) repeat 6 times (42)

Row 8 :

3 dc, 2dc in next dc, (6 dc, 2dc in next dc) repeat 5 times, 3 dc (48)

— Middle section (any ball) :

Middle Row :

1dc in each dc to end – repeat until you have as many 'middle rows' as you have rows in your top (circle) section.

— Bottom Section for an eight-row circle ball :

Info :

Note: These row numbers count DOWN to the top of the ball, so for an eight row circle ball the next row is row 8. Read the notes, below, on stuffing before the hole in your ball gets too small.

Row 8 :

3 dc, dec, (6 dc, dec) repeat 5 times, 3 dc (42)

Row 7 :

(5 dc, dec) repeat 6 times (36)

Row 6 :

2 dc, dec, (4 dc, dec) repeat 5 times, 2 dc (30)

Row 5 :

(3 dc, dec) repeat 6 times (24)

Row 4 :

1 dc, dec, (2 dc, dec) repeat 5 times, 1 dc (18)

Row 3 :

(dc, dec) repeat 6 times (12)

Row 2 :

dec 6 times (6)

Row 1 :

Cut the yarn, leaving a long tail. Put the tail in a sewing needle, and thread through the front loop of each of the remaining 6 stitches going around the ring in the same direction you were working. Pull tight and finish the end, hiding it inside the ball.

— Stuffing :

Info :

Do not stuff the ball too firmly, it will distort the shape. Try to stuff evenly, if possible with small balls just use one piece of stuffing pushed in at perhaps the 18 stitch row (balls smaller than this may not need stuffing at all). If you need a lot of stuffing, try putting in a fairly large amount to start with and then spreading it out so that you can put the rest into the middle of the stuffing you’ve already put in – this tends to give a smoother, more even result. When you’ve finished off the ball, roll it in your hands for a while (or on a flat surface if it’s too big for that) until it’s as round as you can make it.

— The other 7 smallest sizes :

Info :

Yes, I said the first eight sizes were given in full. They are. Just take the first however many rows you want from the eight-row ball, the middle section, and the last same-number of rows, counting from the end. So for the tiniest ball with the yarn you have, just the first row, one middle row, and the last row. For the next size, the first two rows, two middle rows, and the last two rows. And so on for the first seven sizes.

— Larger Sizes :

Info :

OK, for larger sizes I think you can probably see how it goes. Every row of the top circle section you increase (2dc in next dc) six stitches, evenly spread around the ball. The number of stitches between the increases gets bigger by one stitch on each row.

Info :

If this is an odd number, start the row with that number of stitches, increase, then repeat that until the end of the row. For example, rows 3, 5 and 7 on the method above.

Info :

If it is an even number, then to put the increase in the middle of the space rather than in the same place as the increase on the previous row, you start with HALF that number of stitches, increase, then (the full number, increase) five times, then that half number again and you should be at the end of the row. For example, rows 4, 6 and 8 on the method above.

Info :

The middle is always the same – unshaped rows of the same number as the number of rows in your top circle.

Info :

Note: If you are getting very big, and your stitches are not quite the same height as width, you may need to change this a little – measure your circumference, do half the number of middle rows you should need, and check that the dome you have made is half that measurement from one edge to the other measured over the top of that dome.

— Choosing the size of your ball :

Info :

To work out how to make a ball the size you want, you need to know the size of the stitch you get from your yarn with the hook you are using. I do this by making a little sample of crochet about 15 stitches wide and ten rows high (because I feel the first few rows may be distorted by the chain at the beginning). Measure the width of six of the stitches in the middle (ish) of the last row. This is your Unit Measurement. One stitch is a sixth of this, but the measurement you just took is the one you need because all the ball circumferences are a multiple of six stitches.

Info :

You can make the circumference of your ball any multiple of your unit size (or you can change that size, see later). Each size of ball has a circumference of the Unit Measurement multiplied by the number of rows in the top circle section.

— How much Yarn / How big a ball from my Yarn? :

Info :

You may want to know how much yarn you need for a ball, or how big a ball you can make from whatever amount of yarn you have left from a previous project. To do this, you need to know either the weight or the length of yarn needed for (say) 100 stitches in your yarn. So make a trial piece 10 stitches by 10 rows (or similar), and either weigh it or undo it and measure how much yarn it took. If you’ve done the 15 x 10 piece above to try out the size of the stitches, take two-thirds of your result for that (because that was 150 stitches).

Info :

Now, each ball has 6 stitches in the first row, 2x6 in the second row, 3x6 in the third etc. up to Nx6, then has N rows of N x 6 stitches where N is the number of rows which defines the size of the ball, so that is NxNx6 stitches. Plus of course the same size circle section at the base.

— Number of stitches in a ball :

Info :

So we need to add up all the stitches in the top section, multiply by two (so we have the bottom section as well) and add the number in the middle. I’ve done this for you on a chart for the first 12 sizes. If you are doing a bigger ball, you’ll need to do the maths to add on to this. I do it by adding six to the number in the row, then adding that to the last circle size, then doing the rest of the sum. Don’t forget to multiply the circle stitches by two as well as adding in the middle section.

Table (first 12 sizes) :

Number of rows in circle section | Number of stitches in one circle section (A) | Number of stitches in middle section (B) | Total number of stitches (2A+B)

Size 1 :

Rows 1: A=6 B=6 Total=18

Size 2 :

Rows 2: A=18 B=24 Total=60

Size 3 :

Rows 3: A=36 B=54 Total=126

Size 4 :

Rows 4: A=60 B=96 Total=216

Size 5 :

Rows 5: A=90 B=150 Total=330

Size 6 :

Rows 6: A=126 B=216 Total=468

Size 7 :

Rows 7: A=168 B=294 Total=630

Size 8 :

Rows 8: A=216 B=384 Total=816

Size 9 :

Rows 9: A=270 B=486 Total=1026

Size 10 :

Rows 10: A=330 B=600 Total=1260

Size 11 :

Rows 11: A=396 B=726 Total=1518

Size 12 :

Rows 12: A=486 B=864 Total=1836

— Ideas for using balls :

Info :

Of course the most obvious thing is for soft things for young folk to throw around. I made quite a few larger ones of these for babies and toddlers (DO make sure it is stitched up well so they can't get at the stuffing!) before I worked out this pattern, so some of mine are a bit oval – taller than they are wide or wider than they are tall, but that didn’t really matter to the kids, it seemed.

Info :

For winter holidays, you could make baubles – use yarns that shade, or change colours every row, or do something elaborate with colour. The middle section where you have no increases or decreases should be a good place to make a pattern. You could also use two or three balls of different sizes to make a snowman (snowperson?) with a few felt or crochet add-ons.

Info :

Small balls in pretty or even sparkly yarns can be used as beads – you could make a graduated necklace. You could even cover some wood or plastic beads as a base, rather than stuffing the balls, if your yarn is stretchy enough to fit over the bead and you can finish the last row or two with it in place.

Info :

Balls make decent heads for dolls or animals, and you can make half or so of a ball in the next size up as hair – add some shaping to the last row or two. A ball with a few more rows in the middle to make it an oval can make a decent body for a toy, too.

Assembly Instructions

  • Finish off the bottom opening: after Row 2 dec 6 times (6 sts remain), cut yarn leaving a long tail, thread tail through a large-eye needle and pass through the front loop of each remaining stitch, pull tight and hide the tail inside the ball to close securely.
  • Stuff evenly as you work: add stuffing gradually through the opening before it gets too small, pushing small amounts into the dome and smoothing to avoid lumps and to achieve a round shape.
  • If covering a bead: stretch the last one or two rounds over the bead and complete finishing rounds with the bead in place so the ball sits snugly and requires no stuffing.
  • Use pins to position any embellishments before sewing; for heads or attachments, align and pin to check symmetry before permanently stitching.
  • Roll and shape the finished ball by hand on a flat surface to even out stuffing and ensure the ball is as round as possible.

Important Notes

  • 💡Work in continuous spirals (amigurumi style) and use a stitch marker to mark the start of each round if you prefer to avoid losing your place.
  • 💡This pattern is written in UK terms (dc = US sc); translate abbreviations before you start if you use US terminology.
  • 💡Measure a Unit Measurement sample (six stitches width) with your chosen yarn and hook to calculate exact sizes and yarn needs.

This simple yet flexible pattern lets you crochet balls in almost any size for toys, baubles, or craft projects. Whether youre making tiny beads or big play balls, the method is easy to scale and fun to customize. Happy crocheting — enjoy making perfectly round creations! 🧶✨

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The finished ball size depends on your Unit Measurement and the number of rows in the top circle section; for the samples shown, circumferences range from about 2.5cm to 20cm depending on yarn and rows.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can use different yarn weights; changing yarn or hook size changes the Unit Measurement and therefore the final circumference — make a sample to calculate the size and yarn needs.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is beginner friendly, using only dc (UK) / sc (US), increases and decreases, but you should be comfortable working in the round and performing basic decreases.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crafters complete a small to medium ball in around 2-3 hours, though larger balls or sets of balls will take longer depending on size and number.