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Aybuke Doll Amigurumi Pattern

Aybuke Doll Amigurumi Pattern
4.9β˜… Rating
12-15 Hours Time Needed
2.2K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Multi-Day Project

A rewarding 12+ hour journeyβ€”perfect for dedicated crafters who love detailed work.

🧸

Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

About This Aybuke Doll Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern guides you step-by-step to crochet Aybuke, a detailed amigurumi doll with wired arms and layered curly hair. It includes full instructions for head, body, arms, legs, hair, hat, dress, jacket and shoes. You’ll learn special stitches (fake double crochet) and assembly tips to finish a professional-looking doll.

Aybuke Doll Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Every round and instruction is listed so you can follow along comfortably, with material and tool lists to prepare before you start. Photos and pointers for shaping the face and sewing the hair help you achieve the signature look.

Why You'll Love This Aybuke Doll Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it combines classic amigurumi shaping with cute, wearable clothing that you can customize. I enjoy the layered hair technique which gives the doll an appealing textured hairstyle that feels unique and playful. The wired arms and detailed skirt make it a joy to style and display, and sewing the hat and jacket is a fun finishing touch. I’m proud of how the instructions include small tricks for shaping the mouth and eyes to give Aybuke a lot of personality.

Aybuke Doll Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Aybuke Doll Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Aybuke Doll Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Aybuke Doll Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how easy it is to customize Aybuke by changing yarn colors; I often switch the dress and hair colors to create new personalities.

I like making a mini version by using thinner yarn and a smaller hook for a tiny pocket-sized doll that works great as a gift charm.

I sometimes use bulky yarn and a larger hook to make a larger, cuddlier version perfect for display or play with less delicate features.

I often swap safety eyes for embroidered eyes for a softer, child-safe finish when the doll is intended for young children.

I enjoy mixing materials for the skirt: try different laces, ribbons or colored tulle strips to vary the ruffle effect and silhouette.

I will sometimes add tiny crocheted accessories like a purse, headband or tiny amigurumi flower to make the doll more personalized.

I recommend experimenting with hair length by extending the back hair chain counts or by using the alternative rows 11-36 to create longer flowing hair.

I also like embroidering different mouth shapes and eyebrow angles to change the expression β€” small changes create big character differences.

I sometimes wire the legs lightly so the doll can stand more stably or pose in a seated position on a shelf or in a dollhouse.

I often switch yarn brands for subtle texture changes; cotton gives a neat finish, while acrylic or blends give softer, more plush results.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

βœ— Skipping stitch markers when joining legs to the body can cause misalignment of the torso; place and check a marker when joining so the seam and stitch counts remain accurate. βœ— Not taping or securing wire ends in the arms can create sharp points or loose wires; always bend and tape the wire ends and cover with tape before inserting into the crocheted arm. βœ— Using a hook that is too large will create gaps and stuffing may show through; choose the recommended hook size and check gauge to keep stitches tight and neat. βœ— Forgetting to stuff gradually leads to lumps and uneven shaping; stuff little by little and use small amounts to shape evenly, especially in head and feet.

Aybuke Doll Amigurumi Pattern

Create a charming Aybuke amigurumi doll with this complete crochet pattern. You will make a detailed, poseable doll with wired arms, layered hair, a ruffled skirt and removable hat and jacket. The pattern includes full round-by-round instructions, materials, abbreviations and useful assembly photos so you can follow along easily. Perfect for making a treasured handmade gift or a keepsake for your collection.

Intermediate 12-15 Hours

Materials Needed for Aybuke Doll Amigurumi Pattern

β€” Main Fabric

  • 01
    Skin color, Catania, color no: 436 (amount as needed for head, body, arms, legs)
  • 02
    White, Catania, color no: 0106 (used for socks and leg base)
  • 03
    Dress: Alize diva batik, color no: 5550 (enough for skirt and dress top)
  • 04
    Hat: Stone color, Alize diva, color no: 383 (small amount)
  • 05
    Hat: Green, Alize diva, color no: 463 (small amount for hat details)
  • 06
    Jacket: Light mink color, Alize diva, color no: 167 (enough for jacket)
  • 07
    Shoes: Dark mink color, Alize diva, color no: 688 (small amount)
  • 08
    A little brown and white yarns for embroidering eyes and details
  • 09
    White crystal tulle for bottom skirt cut in strips of 3 cm wide and 19 cm long
  • 10
    Some length of ribbon for decoration and 1 m of cotton lace
  • 11
    2 ready-made ribbon roses or buttons for shoes and 3 mini buttons for jacket
  • 12
    Polyester fiberfill for stuffing

β€” Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size 1.75 mm
  • 02
    Crochet hook size 2.0 mm
  • 03
    Crochet hook size 2.2 mm
  • 04
    10 mm black safety eyes (2 pieces)
  • 05
    Tapestry needle for sewing and embroidery
  • 06
    Scissors
  • 07
    Stitch markers
  • 08
    Polyester stuffing
  • 09
    Flat plastic sole for shoe base (cut to size)
  • 10
    Some copper wire and tape (for securing wire ends and arm/shoulder structure)
  • 11
    3.5 cm wide wired ribbon or grosgrain ribbon for hat bow
  • 12
    5 mm wide fine brown ribbon for sock decoration and hat

Progress Tracker

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β€” Arms :

Round 1 :

Sc 6 in a magic ring = (6)

Round 2 :

(Sc, inc)*3 = (9)

Round 3 :

(Sc 2, inc)*3 = (12)

Round 4 - 6 :

(3 rounds) Sc in each st around = (12)

Round 7 :

Sc 8, (dec)*2 = (10)

Round 8 :

Sc 8, dec = (9)

Round 9 - 29 :

(21 rounds) Sc in each st around = (9)

Info :

There is only wire in the arm, we do not fill fiber. You can look at the pictures on the body page for the wire assembly.

β€” Feet-Legs :

Info :

Hook: 1.75 mm, with white yarn;

Round 1 :

Ch 7, starting from the 2nd ch from hook inc, sc 4, sc 5 into the same st, sc 4, inc = (17)

Round 2 :

(Inc)*2, sc 4, (inc)*5, sc 4, (inc)*2 = (26)

Round 3 :

Sc, inc, sc 6, (sc, inc)*5, sc 6, inc, sc = (33)

Info :

Cut a piece of flat plastic sole in size of the sole piece of the foot.

Round 4 :

Work in blo, sc in each st around = (33)

Round 5 - 8 :

(4 rounds) sc in each st around = (33)

Round 9 :

Dec, sc 9, (dec)*6, sc 10 = (26)

Info :

Place the plastic sole in foot, fill the foot with fiberfill and add stuffing as the work progresses.

Round 10 :

Dec, sc 8, (dec)*4, sc 8 = (21)

Round 11 :

Sc 8, dec, sc, dec, sc 8 = (19)

Round 12 :

Sc 7, dec, sc, dec, sc 7 = (17)

Round 13 :

Sc 6, dec, sc, dec, sc 6 = (15)

Round 14 - 17 :

(4 rounds) Sc in each st around = (15)

Round 18 :

Sc, inc, sc 13 = (16) ('inc' is in the middle of the back)

Round 19 - 20 :

Sc in each st around = (16)

Round 21 :

Inc, sc, inc, sc 13 = (18) ('inc' is in the middle of the back)

Round 22 - 24 :

(3 rounds) Sc in each st around = (18)

Round 25 :

Sc 3, inc, sc 14 = (19) ('inc' is in the middle of the back)

Round 26 - 29 :

(4 rounds) Sc in each st around = (19)

Round 30 :

Sc 4, dec, sc 13 = (18) ('dec' is in the middle of the back)

Round 31 :

Sc 3, (dec)*2, sc 11 = (16)

Round 32 :

Leave the white yarn on the right side of the work, leave a long tail and cut the yarn. Attach the skin color yarn in the back loop of the st; work in blo, sc 16 = (16)

Info :

Wrap the white yarn tail around the leg and fix it. (photo 1) OR sl st 16 in the front loops of this round with white yarn. (photo 2)

Round 33 :

Sc 10, (inc)*4, sc 2 = (20) ((inc)*4 is in the middle of the front *knee*)

Round 34 :

Sc 10, (dec)*4, sc 2 = (16) ((dec)*4 is in the middle of the front)

Round 35 :

Sc in each st around = (16)

Round 36 :

Sc 3, inc, sc 2, inc, sc 9 = (18) ('sc 2' is in the middle of the back)

Round 37 - 38 :

(2 rounds) Sc in each st around = (18)

Round 39 :

Sc 4, inc, sc 2, inc, sc 10 = (20) ('sc 2' is in the middle of the back)

Round 40 - 41 :

(2 rounds) Sc in each st around = (20)

Round 42 :

Sc 5, inc, sc 2, inc, sc 11 = (22) ('sc 2' is in the middle of the back)

Round 43 - 44 :

(2 rounds) Sc in each st around = (22)

Round 45 :

Sc 6, inc, sc 2, inc, sc 12 = (24) ('sc 2' is in the middle of the back)

Round 46 - 50 :

(5 rounds) Sc in each st around = (24)

Round 51 :

Sc 7, cut the yarn. First leg has finished.

Info :

Note: The place of the last st may be different because of the yarn you use and your crocheting style. In the last round, the end point should be in the inner middle. Crochet second leg in the same way but crochet the last round as given below; 51) Sc 17

β€” Body :

Info :

With white yarn;

Round 1 :

Ch 3, join the 2nd leg to the 1st leg, sc 24, sc 3 on ch, sc 24, sc 3 on ch (back)) = (54) (Place the stitch marker here)

Round 2 :

(Sc 8, inc)*6 = (60)

Round 3 - 8 :

(6 rounds) Sc in each st around = (60)

Round 9 :

(Sc 8, dec)*6 = (54)

Round 10 - 11 :

(2 rounds) Sc in each st around = (54)

Info :

Continue with skin color yarn;

Round 12 :

(Sc 7, dec)*6 = (48)

Round 13 :

Sc 3, dec, (sc 6, dec)*5, sc 3 = (42)

Round 14 :

Sc in each st around = (42)

Round 15 :

Sc 10, dec, sc 20, dec, sc 8 = (40) ('dec's are on the sides)

Round 16 - 17 :

(2 rounds) Sc in each st around = (40)

Round 18 :

Sc 10, dec, sc 19, dec, sc 7 = (38)

Round 19 :

Sc in each st around = (38)

Round 20 :

Sc 10, dec, sc 18, dec, sc 6 = (36)

Round 21 - 26 :

(6 rounds) Sc in each st around = (36)

Round 27 :

Sc 11, inc, sc 18, inc, sc 5 = (38) ('inc's are on the sides)

Round 28 :

Sc 11, inc, sc 19, inc, sc 6 = (40)

Info :

In the next round we will attach the arms to the body. The st marker must be in the middle of the back but if not sc more until the middle of the back and place st marker. (Photo 3) Attach the arms to the sides of the body.

Round 29 :

Sc 9 in sts at the back, sc 2 in sts of both the arm and body together, sc 18 in sts in the front, sc 2 in sts of both the arm and body together, sc 9 in sts at the back = (40)

Round 30 :

Sc 9, sc 7 in sts on the first arm, sc 18, sc 7 in sts on the second arm, sc 9 = (50)

Info :

In this round place the wire into the arms and body. (Look at the photos) Cut a piece of wire of 25 cm long and bend both ends of the wire and secure the ends with tape. Place the wire into the arms. Make 3 layers of some wire to be 13 cm long, tape the ends and insert into the body as shown in the picture. (Photo 4- 5- 6)

Round 31 :

Dec, sc 23, dec, sc 23 = (48)

Round 32 :

(Sc 6, dec)*6 = (42)

Round 33 :

(Sc 5, dec)*6 = (36)

Round 34 :

(Sc 4, dec)*6 = (30)

Round 35 :

(Sc 3, dec)*6 = (24)

Round 36 :

(Sc 2, dec)*6 = (18)

Round 37 - 40 :

(4 rounds) Sc in each st around = (18)

Info :

Fasten off.

β€” Head :

Info :

Hook 1.75 mm,

Round 1 :

Sc 6 in a mr = (6)

Round 2 :

(Inc)*6 = (12)

Round 3 :

(Sc, inc)*6 = (18)

Round 4 :

Sc, inc, (sc 2, inc)*5, sc = (24)

Round 5 :

(Sc 3, inc)*6 = (30)

Round 6 :

Sc 2, inc, (sc 4, inc)*5, sc 2 = (36)

Round 7 :

(Sc 5, inc)*6 = (42)

Round 8 :

Sc 3, inc, (sc 6, inc)*5, sc 3 = (48)

Round 9 :

(Sc 7, inc)*6 = (54)

Round 10 :

Sc 4, inc, (sc 8, inc)*5, sc 4 = (60)

Round 11 - 19 :

(9 rounds) Sc in each st around = (60)

Round 20 :

Sc 24, ch 1 skip 1 st, sc 9, ch 1 skip 1 st, sc 25

Round 21 :

Sc 16, (inc, sc)*4, inc, sc 9, inc, (sc, inc)*4, sc 17 = (70)

Round 22 - 27 :

(6 rounds) Sc in each st around = (70)

Info :

Insert the 10 mm black safety eyes in the holes made in round 20.

Round 28 :

(Sc 5, dec)*10 = (60)

Round 29 :

Sc 2, dec, (sc 4, dec)*9, sc 2 = (50)

Round 30 :

(Sc 3, dec)*10 = (40)

Round 31 :

Sc, dec, (sc 2, dec)*9, sc = (30)

Round 32 :

(Sc 3, dec)*6 = (24)

Round 33 :

(Sc 2, dec)*6 = (18)

Info :

* NOSE; With skin color yarn, by centering both eyes stitch the nose on 3 sts between rounds 22 - 23.

Info :

* SHAPING THE MOUTH; Use two long needles for making the mouth. Insert the needles between the rounds 27 and 28 leaving 4 sts between them and get them out of the top of the head. Pull the yarn lightly from the top and tie it. (Photo 1/2/3), color the mouth with pink thread.

Info :

* SHAPING THE EYES; To make an eye hole, insert the needle from the back of the head at eye level, pull the needle out of the point 1 (marked with arrow) (Photo 4) Insert the needle from point 2 and pull it out of point 3. Insert the needle from point 4 and take the needle out of the back of the head where you made the first entry. Pull the yarn ends proportionally from the back, form the eye holes and knot the yarn ends securely.

Info :

* EYEBROW - EYELASHES With brown yarn, stitch the eyebrows on 3 sts 4 sts above the eyes leaving 8 sts between them.

Info :

The eyelashes are embroidered on the eye without separating the layers of the yarn as in the picture. The lower eyelash is embroidered with a single layer of yarn. White part of the eye is embroidered with white yarn. (Look at the photos below)

Info :

After finishing the head, sew it to the body.

β€” Hair :

Info :

Hook: 2 mm. Click on the video link for detailed tutorial about Aybuke doll’s hair.

Round part 1 :

Sc 6 in a mr = (6)

Round part 2 :

(Inc)*6 = (12)

Round part 3 :

(Sc, inc)*6 = (18)

Round part 4 :

Work in FLO, (sc 2, inc)*6 = (24)

Round part 5 :

(Sc 3, inc)*6 = (30)

Round part 6 :

(Sc 4, inc)*6 = (36)

Info :

Do not cut the yarn and continue crocheting the hair strands.

β€” 1st Layer of Hair :

Row 1 :

Ch 35, starting from the 2nd ch from hook, sl st 1, sc 2, inc, (hdc 2, hdcinc)*3, hdc 21, sl st in the next st on round 6 of the round part

Row 2 :

Ch 28, starting from the 2nd ch from hook, sl st 1, sc 2, inc, (hdc 2, hdcinc)*3, hdc 14, sl st in the next st on round 6 of the round part

Row 3 :

Ch 26, starting from the 2nd ch from hook, sl st 1, sc 2, inc, (hdc 2, hdcinc)*2, hdc 15, sl st in the next st on round 6 of the round part

Row 4 :

Ch 23, starting from the 2nd ch from hook, sl st 1, sc 2, inc, (hdc 2, hdcinc)*2, hdc 12, sl st in the next st on round 6 of the round part

Row 5 :

Ch 17, starting from the 2nd ch from hook, sl st 2, sc 2, hdc 12, sl st in the next st on round 6 of the round part

Row 6 :

Ch 15, starting from the 2nd ch from hook, sl st 2, sc 2, hdc 10, sl st in the next st on round 6 of the round part

Info :

(This hair strand -made with 15 chs- should be over the left eye while being sewn to the head. Photo 1)

Row 7 :

Ch 28, starting from the 2nd ch from hook, sl st 1, sc 2, inc, (hdc 2, hdcinc)*3, hdc 14, sl st in the next st on round 6 of the round part

Row 8 :

Ch 30, starting from the 2nd ch from hook, sl st 1, sc 2, inc, (hdc 2, hdcinc)*3, hdc 16, sl st in the next st on round 6 of the round part

Row 9 :

Ch 37, starting from the 2nd ch from hook, sl st 1, sc 2, inc, (hdc 2, hdcinc)*4, hdc 20, sl st in the next st on round 6 of the round part

Row 10 :

Ch 40, starting from the 2nd ch from hook, sl st 1, sc 2, inc, (hdc 2, hdcinc)*5, hdc 20, sl st in the next st on round 6 of the round part

Row 11 - 36 :

(26 rows) Ch 30, starting from the 2nd ch from hook sl st 1, sc 2, hdc 26, "sl st in the next st on round 6 of the round part" Cut the yarn. (photo 5)

Info :

Note: Alternatively, if you want these back hair strands to be longer, you can crochet the rows 11 - 36 as described below: 11 - 36) (26 rows) Ch 60, starting from the 2nd ch from hook sl st 1, sc 2, hdc 56, "sl st in the next st on round 6 of the round part" Cut the yarn.

β€” 2nd Layer of Hair :

Info :

Attach the yarn to one of the back loops of round 4 of the round part of the hair. (Photo 2)

Rows 1 - 18 :

1 - 18) (18 rounds) Ch 60, starting from the 2nd ch from hook, sl st 1, sc 2, hdc 56, sl st in the next st on round 4 of the round part (Photo 3, The wrong side of the work should be facing outwards)

β€” Sewing Hair to the Head :

Info :

Note: Pay attention to the fact that the hair is sewn to the head with the wrong side facing out. Place the hair on the top of the head first and fix it with pins.

Info :

Place the 15-chain hair strand which is on the 1st layer of the hair over the doll's eye. (photo 1) Place the 30-chain hair strands on the back of the head and fix them with pins and then sew them on with a needle and yarn. Shape the ends of the hair in the front by curling them inward and fix them by sewing with a needle and yarn or sticking with hot silicone.

β€” Hat :

Info :

Hook: 2.2 mm

Round 1 :

Ch 17, starting from the 2nd ch from hook sc 15, 3-sc inc, continue from the other side of the chain sc 15, turn = (33)

Round 2 :

Ch 1, sc 15, (inc)*3, sc 15, turn = (36)

Round 3 :

Ch 1, sc 15, (sc, inc)*3, sc 15, turn = (39)

Round 4 :

Ch 1, sc 15, (sc 2, inc)*3, sc 15, turn = (42)

Round 5 :

Ch 1, sc 15, (sc 3, inc)*3, sc 15, turn = (45)

Round 6 :

Ch 1, sc 15, (sc 4, inc)*3, sc 15, turn = (48)

Round 7 :

Ch 1, sc 15, (sc 5, inc)*3, sc 15, turn = (51)

Round 8 :

Ch 1, sc 15, (sc 6, inc)*3, sc 15, turn = (54)

Round 9 :

Ch 1, sc 15, (sc 7, inc)*3, sc 15, turn = (57)

Round 10 :

Ch 1, sc 15, (sc 8, inc)*3, sc 15, turn = (60)

Round 11 :

Ch 1, sc in each st along, turn = (60)

Round 12 :

Work in FLO, ch 1, sc in each st along, turn = (60)

Round 13 :

Ch 1, sc 3, hdc 4, dc 46, hdc 4, sc 3, turn = (60)

Round 14 :

Ch 1, sc in each st along, turn = (60)

Round 15 :

Ch 1, sc 3, hdc 4, dc 46, hdc 4, sc 3, turn = (60)

Round 16 :

Ch 1, sc in each st along, turn = (60)

Round 17 :

Ch 1, sc 3, hdc 4, dc 46, hdc 4, sc 3, turn = (60)

Round 18 :

Ch 1, sc in each st along, turn = (60)

Round 19 :

Ch 1, sc 3, hdc 4, dc 46, hdc 4, sc 3, turn = (60)

Round 20 :

Ch 1, sc in each st along, turn = (60)

Round 21 :

Ch 1, sc 3, hdc 4, dc 46, hdc 4, sc 3, turn = (60)

Round 22 :

Ch 1, sc in each st along, turn = (60)

Round 23 :

Work in BLO, ch 1, sc 14, hdcinc, dc 14, (dcinc)*2, dc 14, hdcinc, sc 14, turn = (64)

Round 24 :

Ch 1, sc 14, hdc 2, hdcinc, (dc 4, dcinc)*3, (dcinc, dc 4)*3, hdcinc, hdc 2, sc 14, turn = (72)

Round 25 :

Ch 1, sc 13, hdcinc, (dc 10, dcinc)*3, dc 10, hdcinc, sc 14, turn = (77)

Round 26 :

Ch 1, sc 10, hdc 6, dcinc, (dc 8, dcinc)*5, hdc 6, sc 9 = (83)

Info :

Cut the yarn. Attach the yarn to one of the front loops of round 23. (Photo 2)

Round 23 (again) :

Work in FLO, sc 14, hdcinc, dc 14, (dcinc)*2, dc 14, hdcinc, sc 14, turn = (64)

Round 24 (again) :

Ch 1, sc 14, hdc 2, hdcinc, (dc 4, dcinc)*3, (dcinc, dc 4)*3, hdcinc, hdc 2, sc 14, turn = (72)

Round 25 (again) :

Ch 1, sc 13, hdcinc, (dc 10, dcinc)*3, dc 10, hdcinc, sc 14, turn = (77)

Round 26 (again) :

Ch 1, sc 10, hdc 6, dcinc, (dc 8, dcinc)*5, hdc 6, sc 9, turn = (83)

Info :

Make a bow by using a 3.5 cm wide wire ribbon or grosgrain ribbon and decorate the hat with it.

β€” Dress :

Info :

Hook: 2.2 mm or 2 mm. Click the link for (Aybuke doll) fake double crochet (fdc) tutorial.

Round 1 :

Ch 40, starting from the 9th ch from hook (sc, inc)*16, turn = (48) (Note: 9 stitches are left unworked for buttonhole)

Round 2 - 3 :

(2 rows) Ch 1, sc 48, turn = (48)

Round 4 :

Sc 8, ch 8 skip 8 sts, sc 16, ch 8 skip 8 sts, sc 8, turn

Round 5 :

Ch 1, sc 8, sc 8 on chain, sc 16, sc 8 on chain, sc 8, turn = (48)

Round 6 - 13 :

(8 rows) Ch 1, sc 48, turn = (48)

Info :

Continue by crocheting fdc on the skirt part of the dress. (Fake double crochet instructions included in pattern)

Round 14 :

Join both edges with a sl st. Work in FLO, ch 2, fdcinc in each st around, sl st in the 1st st = (96)

Round 15 - 22 :

(8 rounds) Ch 2, fdc in each st around, sl st in the 1st st = (96)

Round 23 :

Work in BLO, ch 2, (fdc, fdcinc)*repeat to the end of the row, sl st in the 1st st

Round 24 :

Ch 2, fdc in each st around, sl st in the 1st st

Round 25 :

Ch 2, (fdc 2, dcinc)*repeat to the end of the row, sl st in the 1st st

Round 26 :

Ch 2, fdc in each st around, sl st in the 1st st

Round 27 :

Ch 2, (fdc 3, dcinc)*repeat to the end of the row, sl st in the 1st st

Round 28 :

Work in BLO, ch 2, fdc in each st around, sl st in the 1st st

Round 29 - 32 :

(4 rows) Ch 2, fdc in each st around, sl st in the 1st st

Round 33 :

Work in BLO, (Ch 3, skip 1 st, sc)*repeat to the end of the row. Fasten off.

Info :

Attach the yarn of the dress to the starting st of the front loop of row 23; (ch 3, skip 1 st, sc 1)*repeat to the end of the row. Sew cotton lace at the edge of the skirt. For the sleeves of the dress, crochet only on top edge of the arm opening of the dress and attach the yarn to one of the sts at the arm opening, (ch 1, sl st 1)*repeat for a few sts. Fasten off.

Info :

For bottom skirt of tulle; cut the tulle in strips of 3 cm wide and 19 cm long and attach them to the back loops of row 14 as if attaching hair strands to head.

Info :

Sew on a button at the back of the dress.

β€” Jacket :

Info :

Hook 2 mm, with the yarn with the color of jacket (Alize diva 167),

Round 1 :

Ch 37, starting from the 2nd ch from hook, sc 36, turn = (36)

Round 2 :

Ch 1, (sc 2, inc)*12, turn = (48)

Round 3 :

Ch 1, sc in each st along, turn = (48)

Round 4 :

Ch 1, (inc, sc 3)*12, turn = (60)

Round 5 :

Ch 1, sc in each st along, turn = (60)

Round 6 :

Ch 1, sc 9, ch 10 skip 12 sts, sc 18, ch 10 skip 12 sts, sc 9, turn

Round 7 :

Ch 1, sc in each st along, turn = (56)

Round 8 - 10 :

(3 rounds) Ch 1, sc in each st along, turn = (56)

Info :

(The length of the jacket should be enough to the waist of the dress)

Round 11 :

Work in BLO, (ch 4, skip 1 st, sl st 1)*28

Info :

Do not cut the yarn and sl st in each st along the front edge of the jacket through the neckline. By centering the collar on the neckline of the jacket, mark its place with pins and start crocheting it on the neckline between the pins.

Collar Round 1 :

Sc 30, turn = (30)

Collar Round 2 - 6 :

(5 rounds) Ch 1, sc 30, turn = (30)

Collar Round 7 :

Work in FLO, (ch 4, skip 1 st, sc 1)*15

Info :

Do not cut the yarn and sl st in each st along the other front edge of the jacket. Fasten off.

β€” Sleeves of Jacket :

Round 1 :

With the color of jacket, Attach the yarn from one of the sts left for the sleeve of the jacket, sc 23, sl st in the 1st st

Round 2 - 23 :

(22 rounds) Ch 1, sc 23, sl st in the 1st st

Round 24 :

Work in BLO, (ch 4, skip 1 st, sc)*12

Info :

For the stitching image on the collar, sleeves and pockets on the jacket: Surface sl st along the edge of jacket by attaching the yarn with the color of the dress from the back. Sew 3 mini buttons on jacket.

β€” Shoes :

Info :

Hook: 2 mm,

Round 1 :

Ch 7, starting from the 2nd ch from hook inc, sc 4, sc 5 in the same st, sc 4, inc = (17)

Round 2 :

(Inc)*2, sc 4, (inc)*5, sc 4, (inc)*2 = (26)

Round 3 :

Sc, inc, sc 6, (sc, inc)*5, sc 6, inc, sc = (33)

Round 4 :

Sc in each st around = (33)

Round 5 :

Sc 12, inc, sc 8, inc, sc 11 = (35)

Round 6 :

Work in blo, sc in each st around = (35)

Round 7 - 10 :

(4 rounds) Sc in each st around = (35)

Round 11 :

Sc 11, (dec)*8, sc 8 = (27)

Round 12 :

Sl st 27 (You can crochet this row after putting the shoes on feet)

Info :

Attach the yarn with the same color of the dress to the front loops of round 6, (sl st 1, ch 1)* repeat to the end of the round. Cut the yarn. Decorate the shoes using two ready-made ribbon roses or buttons.

Assembly Instructions

  • Insert 25 cm wire into both arms, bend and tape the wire ends, then place three taped wire layers (13 cm each) into the body as shown in photos; position and sew arms to the sides of the body at the attachment round, securing the wire inside.
  • Place and secure the 10 mm safety eyes between rounds 20 and 21 of the head before stuffing further; center the eyes using the placement in round 20 and then continue stuffing and closing the head.
  • Sew the head to the body after finishing the head shaping and facial embroidery by aligning the neck opening of the head to the top of the body and sewing with a tapestry needle and matching yarn using a whipstitch.
  • Attach the hair layers to the head by pinning the 15-chain strand over the eye and positioning the 30-chain strands on the back, then sew each hair piece securely to the head and curl or shape the front hair ends into spirals, securing with needle and yarn or hot silicone.
  • Assemble clothing and accessories: join the dress front and back edges, attach tulle strips to back loops of row 14 for the skirt ruffle, sew on a button at the back of the dress and sew three mini buttons to the jacket as indicated.
  • Insert the plastic sole into the foot before finishing the ankle rounds, then sew the shoe upper (round 12 sl st row) after placing shoes on feet; decorate shoes with ribbon roses or buttons.
  • Pin and center the hat on the head, sew the bow made from wired ribbon to the hat and finish edging as shown in the hat photos.

Important Notes

  • πŸ’‘The hook size suggested in the pattern is just an offer; choose your hook to make the fabric tight without gaps so stuffing does not show through.
  • πŸ’‘Use stitch markers to keep track of the rounds, especially when joining legs to body and when placing increases/decreases on the front or back.
  • πŸ’‘Tape and secure any wire ends before inserting into arms and body to prevent sharp wire from coming through the crochet fabric.
  • πŸ’‘Stuff gradually and evenly to shape head and body; stuffing too much will distort shaping while too little makes the doll floppy.
  • πŸ’‘Place safety eyes before finishing the head and tying off rounds so they sit flush and centered according to the instructions.

This Aybuke doll pattern is a delightful project that mixes playful styling with classic amigurumi shaping. The layered hair, wired arms and ruffled skirt give the doll charming character and poseability. Follow the photos and step-by-step rounds to create a beautiful handmade keepsake. 🧢✨

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FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The finished amigurumi measures approximately 28-32 cm tall depending on yarn tension and hook size used.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can use different yarn weights but this will affect final size; adjust hook size accordingly and expect changes in proportions and required quantities.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate; basic skills like single crochet, increases, decreases, working in BLO/FLO and simple shaping are recommended.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crocheters complete this project in 12-15 hours across multiple sessions depending on experience, customization and finishing details.