What size will the finished piece be?

The finished toy measures approximately 7 cm (2.8 inches) high and 12 cm (4.7 inches) in length without the tail when using the recommended yarn and hook sizes.

Can I skip the cotter pin and wire?

Yes. The cotter pin and wire are optional. They add movement to the head and tail but are not necessary; if the toy is for small children, skip metal parts and sew the head and tail securely instead.

Do I need to split yarn C for plates and spikes?

Yes. For spikes and plates the pattern instructs to split Yarn C in half to achieve the correct thickness and size when working on 1.5 mm hook.

What skill level is required for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate — basic amigurumi experience is recommended, as it includes small parts, color changes, sewn assembly and optional hardware installation.

Ankylosaurus Bruno Amigurumi Pattern

Make Bruno the Ankylosaurus — a chubby, spike-backed amigurumi dinosaur you will love to crochet. This pattern walks you through the head, body, tail, spikes, plates and assembly with clear step-by-step rounds and helpful photos. Youll enjoy shaping, stuffing and adding movable details like a cotter pin and optional wire for a poseable tail.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Ankylosaurus Bruno Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

01
Yarn A - Yarnart Jeans (color 70) 160 m / 50 g (Sport weight)
02
Yarn B - Alize Cotton Gold Batik (color 3300) 330 m / 100 g (Sport weight)
03
Yarn C - Alize Cotton Gold Tweed (color 62) 330 m / 100 g (Sport weight) - split in half for spikes and plates
04
Bonus popcorn: White, red and yellow yarn (I used Yarn C, Alize Cotton Gold Hobby color 56, Gazzal Jeans color 1125)

— Tools Required

01
Crochet hook 1.75 mm (for crocheting dinosaur)
02
Crochet hook 1.5 mm (for crocheting cheeks, spikes and plates)
03
10 mm safety eyes (2 pieces)
04
Black, white and pink threads mouliné (for embroidery)
05
2 pins or 2 markers
06
Needles for cutting - with a bead on the end (for fixing parts before sewing)
07
Synthepus (polyester stuffing) for filling
08
Scissors
09
Yarn needle (thick needle with blunt end) for sewing
10
Sewing needle
11
Round-nose pliers
12
Cotter pin T-shaped 25 x 2.0 mm
13
Shim 3 x 20 mm
14
Disk, diameter 20 mm
15
Steel wire, diameter 1.6 mm (optional for tail)
16
Electrical tape (for wrapping wire)
17
White cardboard (for popcorn bonus)
18
White felt, black threads, Super Glue 'Moment', coin (for popcorn bonus)

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— HEAD :

Yarn A Round 1 :

11 loops, turning, 10sc (starting from the 2nd loop from the hook) (10)

Round 2 :

1 loop, turning, inc, 8sc, inc (12)

Round 3 :

1 loop, turning, 12sc (12)

Round 4 :

1 loop, turning, inc, 10sc, inc (14)

Round 5 :

1 loop, turning, 14sc only through front loops (14)

Round 6-7 :

1 loop, turning, 14sc (14)

Round 8 :

1 loop, turning, dec, 10sc, dec (12)

Round 9 :

1 loop, turning, 12sc only through front loops (12)

Round 10-11 :

1 loop, turning, 12sc (12)

Round 12 :

1 loop, turning, inc, 10sc, inc (14)

Round 13 :

1 loop, turning, 14sc only through front loops (14)

Round 14-15 :

1 loop, turning, 14sc (14)

Round 16 :

1 loop, turning, dec, 10sc, dec (12)

Round 17 :

1 loop, turning, 12sc only through front loops (12)

Round 18 :

1 loop, turning, dec, 8sc, dec (10)

Round 19 :

1 loop, turning, [dec]x2, 2sc, [dec]x2 (6)

Round 20 :

1 loop, turning, 6sc (6)

Round 21 :

1 loop, turning, 6sc only through front loops (6)

Round 22 :

1 loop, turning, dec, 2sc, dec (4)

Info :

Next change the color to yarn B. To get a beautiful line when changing color in the next row crochet part of the sc in this way - half of the sc with dark-brown (yarn A), and the other half with light-brown (yarn B).

Round 23 :

22sc up; 10sc straight; 22sc down; 4sc straight (58) (see photos 1-3)

Info :

Next cut the yarn A and continue crocheting with yarn B only!

Round 24 :

4sc, dec, 10sc, dec, 18sc, dec, 10sc, dec, 8sc (54)

Round 25-27 :

54sc (54)

Round 28 :

[7sc, dec]x6 (48)

Round 29 :

[6sc, dec]x6 (42)

Round 30 :

[5sc, dec]x6 (36)

Round 31 :

[sc, dec]x12 (24)

— MUZZLE (Yarn C) :

Round 1 :

5 loops, turning, 4sc (starting from the 2nd loop from the hook), 4sc (from the back of the chain) (8)

Round 2 :

[sc, inc]x4 (12)

Round 3 :

12sc, sl st in the 1st sc (12)

Info :

Cut and fix the thread, leaving a long end for sewing (see photo 4). Sew the muzzle to the head as shown on photo 5.

Info :

Insert safety eyes between the rounds 26 and 27, the distance between them is approximately 12 stitches, don't fix yet (see photo 6).

Info :

Using the yarn needle to do from above of the eye 'loose stitch' of black thread floss (see photos 7, 8). Separate one thread and fasten with a needle 'loose stitch' in the middle of the eye (see photos 9, 10). In the same way, embroider one more 'loose stitch' 1 mm higher than the previous one, in order to get an oval shape (see photos 11-14).

Info :

Using yarn needle to do from below the eye 'loose stitch' of white thread floss (see photos 15, 16). Separate one thread and fasten with a needle 'loose stitch' (see photo 17). Press the eye to the embroidered line and fasten it.

Info :

Divide the black threads floss in half, embroider the nostrils and mouth (see photos 18-24).

Round 32 :

[dec]x12 (12)

Info :

Completely fill the head. Insert cotter pin into shim (see photo 31). Place cotter pin between 31 and 32 round of the head as shown on photos 32, 33.

Round 33 :

[dec]x6 (6)

Info :

Trim the thread. Pass the thread through all the loops using a yarn needle. Tighten and secure.

— SPIKES (Yarn C) :

SMALL, 2 pcs Round 1 :

2 loops, 4sc in 2nd loop from hook (amigurumi ring) (4)

Round 2 :

4sc (4)

Round 3 :

[inc]x4 (8)

Round 4 :

[3sc, inc]x2 (10)

Round 5 :

10sc (10)

Round 6 :

[4sc, inc]x2 (12)

Round 7-8 :

12sc (12)

Info :

Cut and fix the thread, leaving a long end for sewing. Slightly stuff the spikes with synthepus and sew it to the head.

BIG, 2 pcs Round 1 :

2 loops, 3sc in 2nd loop from hook (amigurumi ring) (3)

Round 2 :

sc, inc, sc (4)

Round 3 :

[sc, inc]x2 (6)

Round 4 :

[inc]x6 (12)

Round 5 :

[2sc, inc]x4 (16)

Round 6 :

16sc (16)

Round 7 :

[7sc, inc]x2 (18)

Round 8-9 :

18sc (18)

Info :

Cut and fix the thread, leaving a long end for sewing. Slightly stuff the spikes with synthepus and sew it to the head (see photos 34-36).

— TAIL (Yarn A) :

Tail detail 1 Round 1 :

2 loops, 6sc in 2nd loop from hook (amigurumi ring) (6)

Round 2 :

[sc, inc]x3 (9)

Round 3 :

9sc (9)

Info :

Cut and fix the thread. Crochet the second detail according to the same scheme, do not cut the thread.

Info :

To connect the details insert the hook initially into the first detail (from the inside to the outside), and then into the second detail (from the outside to the inside) (see photos 37, 38).

Tail Round 6 (incomplete) :

crochet 3sc of the first detail together with 3sc of the second detail, then crochet 6sc along the second detail (see photo 39)

Round 7 :

crochet 6sc on the first part, crochet 6sc on the second part (12)

Round 6 (continued) :

[4sc, dec]x2 (10)

Round 7 (continued) :

[3sc, dec]x2 (8)

Round 8 :

[2sc, dec]x2 (6)

Round 9-10 :

6sc (6)

Round 11 :

sc, [inc]x2, 3sc (8)

Round 12 :

8sc (8)

Round 13 :

2sc, [inc]x2, 4sc (10)

Round 14 :

10sc (10)

Round 15 :

3sc, [inc]x2, 5sc (12)

Round 16 :

5sc, [inc]x2, 5sc (14)

Round 17 :

7sc, [inc]x2, 5sc (16)

Round 18 :

8sc, [inc]x2, 6sc (18)

Info :

Cut a piece of decorative wire approximately 12 cm (4.7 inches). Twist one end of the wire into a loop, and twist the other end into the ring (of diameter equal to the tail opening) with the help of round nose pliers (see photo 43-45). Wrap the place of twisting with electrical tape (see photo 46). Insert crochet tail to the wire.

Round 19 :

18sc (18)

Info :

Cut and fix the thread. Mark with a pin the place where the tail connect to the back - move the pin to the 12th loop right from the beginning of the round (see photo 51).

— BODY / BACK (Yarn A) :

Back Round 1 :

14 loops, turning, 13sc (starting from the 2nd loop from the hook) (13)

Round 2 :

1 loop, turning, 13sc (13)

Round 3 :

1 loop, turning, inc, 11sc, inc (15)

Round 4 :

1 loop, turning, 15sc only through front loops (15)

Round 5 :

1 loop, turning, inc, 13sc, inc (17)

Round 6 :

1 loop, turning, 17sc (17)

Round 7 :

1 loop, turning, inc, 15sc, inc (19)

Round 8 :

1 loop, turning, 19sc only through front loops (19)

Round 9-11 :

1 loop, turning, 19sc (19)

Round 12 :

1 loop, turning, 19sc only through front loops (19)

Round 13 :

1 loop, turning, 19sc (19)

Round 14 :

1 loop, turning, dec, 15sc, dec (17)

Round 15 :

1 loop, turning, 17sc (17)

Round 16 :

1 loop, turning, 17sc only through front loops (17)

Round 17 :

1 loop, turning, dec, 13sc, dec (15)

Round 18 :

1 loop, turning, dec, 11sc, dec (13)

Round 19 :

1 loop, turning, dec, 9sc, dec (11)

Round 20 :

1 loop, turning, dec, 7sc, dec only through front loops (9)

Round 21 :

1 loop, turning, dec, 5sc, dec (7)

Round 22 :

1 loop, turning, dec, 3sc, dec (5)

Info :

Connect the back with the tail in the next round. To connect the details insert the hook initially into the tail (from the inside to the outside), and then into the back (from the outside to the inside) (see photos 52-55).

Round 23 :

1 loop, turning, crochet 5sc of the back together with 5sc of the tail (see photo 56)

Info :

Next change the color to yarn B. To get a beautiful line when changing color in the next row (the same way as for the head) crochet part of the sc in this way - half of the sc with dark-brown (yarn A), and the other half with light-brown (yarn B). Crochet the body around the perimeter in a counter-clockwise direction from the point 'Start' (see photo 57).

Round 24 :

crochet 22sc, 13sc, 22sc on the back; crochet 13sc on the tail (70) (see photos 58, 59)

Info :

Sew the holes between the tail and the back using extra thread (see photo 60).

Round 25-27 :

70sc (70)

Round 28 :

[5sc, dec]x10 (60)

Round 29 :

[8sc, dec]x6 (54)

— NECK (Yarn C) :

Round 1 :

5 loops, turning, 4sc (starting from the 2nd loop from the hook) (4)

Round 2 :

1 loop, turning, inc, 2sc, inc (6)

Round 3 :

1 loop, turning, inc, 4sc, inc (8)

Round 4 :

1 loop, turning, inc, 6sc, inc (10)

Round 5-9 :

10sc (10)

Round 10 :

8sc down; 4sc straight; 8sc up, 10sc straight (30)

Info :

Mark with a pin the place where the neck connect to the body - move the pin for 1 loop right from the beginning of the round (see photo 62). Cut and fix the thread.

Info :

Continue crochet the body, change the thread to yarn C. Connect the body with the neck in the next round. To connect the details insert the hook initially into the neck (from the inside to the outside), and then into the body (from the outside to the inside) (see photos 63-67).

Round 30 :

crochet 9sc, dec, 7sc along the body; crochet 10sc of the body together with 10sc of the neck; then crochet 2sc, dec, [9sc, dec]x2 along the body (see photo 68) (60)

Round 31-33 :

60sc (60)

Info :

Insert cotter pin between 6 and 7 row of the neck (in the middle, see photos 70, 71). Put the disk on cotter pin and wrap the ends in the 'rings' with the help of round-nosed pliers (see photos 72-75).

Round 34 :

[3sc, dec]x12 (48)

Round 35 :

[2sc, dec]x12 (36)

Info :

Start stuffing the body with synthepus.

Round 36 :

[sc, dec]x12 (24)

Round 37 :

[2sc, dec]x6 (18)

Round 38 :

[sc, dec]x6 (12)

Info :

Completely fill the body.

— PLATES (Yarn C) :

SMALL, 8 pcs Round 1 :

2 loops, 4sc in 2nd loop from hook (amigurumi ring) (4)

Round 2 :

[sc, inc]x2 (6)

Round 3 :

6sc (6)

Info :

Cut and fix the thread, leaving a long end for sewing.

MIDDLE, 10 pcs Round 1 :

2 loops, 6sc in 2nd loop from hook (amigurumi ring) (6)

Round 2 :

[2sc, inc]x2 (8)

Round 3 :

8sc (8)

Round 4 :

[3sc, inc]x2 (10)

Info :

Cut and fix the thread, leaving a long end for sewing.

BIG, 4 pcs Round 1 :

2 loops, 6sc in 2nd loop from hook (amigurumi ring) (6)

Round 2 :

[sc, inc]x3 (9)

Round 3 :

[2sc, inc]x3 (12)

Round 4-5 :

12sc (12)

Info :

Slightly stuff the plates with synthepus. Cut and fix the thread, leaving a long end for sewing (see photo 79). Sew the plates to the back, placing them on the lines of the remaining back loops in a checkerboard pattern as shown on photos 80, 81.

— LEGS (Yarn B) :

FRONT, 2 pcs Round 1 :

5 loops, turning, 4sc (starting from the 2nd loop from the hook), 4sc (from the back of the chain) (8)

Round 2 :

3sc in the next loop, 6sc, 3sc in the next loop (12)

Round 3 :

only through back loops 12sc (12)

Round 4-5 :

[inc]x2, 3sc, {sc3tog}*, 4sc (12)

Note :

*{sc3tog} – sc next 3 stitches together (single crochet decrease, see photo 82-84).

Round 6 :

[dec]x2, 3sc, [inc]x2, 3sc (12)

Round 7 :

12sc (12)

Info :

Start stuffing the leg with synthepus.

Round 8 :

[dec]x2, 3sc, [inc]x2, 3sc (12)

Round 9-14 :

12sc (12)

Round 15 :

[sc, dec]x4 (8)

Info :

Completely fill the leg.

Round 16 :

[2sc, dec]x2 (6)

Info :

Trim the thread. Pass the thread through all the loops using a yarn needle. Tighten and secure.

BACK, 2 pcs Round 1 :

5 loops, turning, 4sc (starting from the 2nd loop from the hook), 4sc (from the back of the chain) (8)

Round 2 :

3sc in the next loop, 6sc, 3sc in the next loop (12)

Round 3 :

only through back loops 12sc (12)

Round 4-5 :

[inc]x2, 3sc, {sc3tog}*, 4sc (12)

Round 6 :

[dec]x2, 3sc, [inc]x2, 3sc (12)

Round 7 :

12sc (12)

Info :

Start stuffing the leg with synthepus.

Round 8 :

[dec]x2, 3sc, [inc]x2, 3sc (12)

Round 9-12 :

12sc (12)

Round 13 :

[sc, dec]x4 (8)

Info :

Completely fill the leg.

Round 14 :

[2sc, dec]x2 (6)

Info :

Trim the thread. Pass the thread through all the loops using a yarn needle. Tighten and secure.

— THOES / TOES (Yarn C, in two folds) :

Info :

Embroider 3 toes on each leg with French knot (see photos 85-90).

— ASSEMBLAGE :

Info :

Sew your crocheted legs to the body with a threaded bracing (use round-nosed pliers to make it easier to pull the needle). For this, it is necessary:

Step 1 :

Attach the legs using needles for cutting (front legs between 29 and 30 rounds of body, distance between legs approx 24 stitches, back legs between 25 and 26 rounds of body, distance between legs approx 16 stitches - view from above, see photos 91-93). Check that the dinosaur stand steadily. Detach the arms and legs without removing the needles from them, and insert other needles for cutting in their place (see photo 94, 95).

Step 2 :

Insert the needle through the back into the front leg attachment point (leaving the loose end of the thread outside) (see photo 96, 97).

Step 3 :

Thread the needle through two loops on the inner surface of the leg (the needle for cutting must be in the middle) (see photo 98).

Step 4 :

Insert the needle into the body at the leg attachment point and pull out it at the point of attachment of the second leg (see photo 99).

Info :

Sew and secure all parts: cheeks, plates, spikes and tail. Use pins to position parts symmetrically before final sewing (see photos 100+ in the guide).

Assembly Instructions

Attach front legs using needles between rounds 29 and 30 of the body; space front legs approximately 24 stitches apart and secure with pins before sewing.
Attach back legs between rounds 25 and 26 of the body with about 16 stitches between them; check the dinosaur stands steadily before final sewing.
Insert the cotter pin through the shim and place it between rounds 31 and 32 of the head; secure with the disk and crimp the ends with round-nose pliers.
Sew plates, spikes and small details to the back using the long sewing tails and arrange plates in a checkerboard pattern (small, middle, big) following the photos.
If using wire in the tail, insert the prepared wire ring into the tail, wrap the twist with tape, and crochet/secure the tail to the wire as described before attaching to the body.

Important Notes

💡My finished toy measures about 7 cm high and 12 cm long without a tail; adjust yarn and hook size to change final dimensions.
💡The cotter pin and internal wire are optional and should be used with caution — avoid for toys intended for babies or young children.
💡Mark the first single crochet of each round with a pin or marker and count loops after each round to ensure accuracy.
💡Stuff the neck very tightly so that the dinosaur holds its head well; stuff other parts firmly but gradually to avoid lumps.

Create a cute, chubby ankylosaurus that will brighten any shelf or gift pile. This detailed amigurumi includes every part from the tiny muzzle to the spiky plates and a poseable tail. Youll love finishing Bruno with embroidered features and a personalized color combination. 🧶🧵😊

Ankylosaurus Bruno Amigurumi Pattern

Intermediate Level

Weekend Treat

Cute Companion

About This Ankylosaurus Bruno Amigurumi Pattern

Why You'll Love This Ankylosaurus Bruno Amigurumi Pattern

Switch Things Up

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them