Dive into a festive collection of holiday crochet projects you can make for gifts and decor. This booklet includes step-by-step photo guidance for a spiral-wrapped Christmas tree, a large stocking, and a gift bag—designed with stash-busting yarn in mind. Youll find clear stitch notes, useful assembly tips, and creative finishing ideas so you can bring seasonal cheer to your home or give handmade presents with confidence.
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— Materials/Notes :
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Most patterns in this booklet are written to use stash-busting yarns. Gauge is not critical for many projects. Hook sizes will vary; the author notes the hook used at the start of each project. Work mostly in spiral for many pieces unless otherwise specified.
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Stitch Glossary: Chain: Ch. Single Crochet: SC. Inc SC: make two single crochet stitches in the same stitch as indicated. Invisible Decrease: inv. dec. - this is an invisible single crochet decrease. Hdc: Half double crochet. Dc: double crochet. Tr: treble crochet. Slip Stitch: sl st. FO: finish off.
— "Oh, Christmas tree, Oh, Christmas tree": Tree #1 :
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Tree 1: Beginner Crochet. Only chain stitches and slip stitches used. For this tree you will need 2 strands of green yarn held together for the example and a K/6.5mm hook. The author used a 23" cardboard tree cone form from Hobby Lobby.
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Tools noted: hot glue gun and maybe some liquid glue. The method described alternates rows of hot glue with rows of liquid glue to secure turns, working in small sections and holding while glue sets.
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Start by chaining continuously with your two strands held together on a K hook. Chain, chain, chain and keep chaining until you have enough length to start attaching to the cone (do not cut your yarn). Pull up a loop to have plenty of spare when you get to the place where you want to start adhering the chain to your form.
Item Name (P1) :
Attach the beginning of your starting chain to the very bottom of the cone form. Use the two starting tails to tie the bottom row together after confirming it is snug. After securing the first row, stream a bit of liquid glue above the starting line and run some more rows around. Work slow enough to keep your chain positioned right-side up and pulled nice and firm, but not overtight. If using liquid glue with hot glue, put your finger over the work after a few rows and hold tight while running a stream of hot glue to secure the next bit of chain.
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Continue alternating a few rows in liquid glue, hold firm, then a row in hot glue to set and secure, and repeat. Alternatively, you can hot glue the entire cone; just work in small sections and keep the right-side of the chain facing out so it doesnt twist.
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At this stage you may stop if you like the wrapped cone base look. You can add battery-operated lights or beaded garland. If you are moving on to loops DO NOT CUT your yarn. After finishing the wrapped base and reaching the top, start making loop chains to add the leafy loops.
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Loops instructions: After you have wrapped the entire cone and if you are continuing to the loops, start with a chain 10, slip stitch at the base of your chain 10 and repeat. You can change chain length to make larger or smaller loops. Continue until you are satisfied with coverage — space loops as desired.
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After making loops across the cone, wind them loosely first so you can space them out and then tighten evenly. Once all loops are on, start at the top and pull them snug all the way around, repositioning evenly. In the author example the loop chain stuck well enough to the wrapped yarn beneath and did not require extra adhesive.
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Finishing: Give the whole tree a steam bath to refresh and soften older 4-ply yarn; steaming relaxes fibers and improves appearance. That completes Tree #1.
— "...and the stockings were hung by the chimney with care": Christmas Stocking :
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Stocking: Beginner Friendly Crochet with full photo tutorial and easy stitches. Uses SC, HDC, DC and front post/back post double crochet for the top border if desired. Examples are approximately 10" wide by 25" long using two strands held together and a K/6.5mm hook.
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Work in spiral for most of this stocking; the work starts on the bottom/toe and works up the stocking. The example used two strands held together throughout. Use scrap yarns and change color for toe, heel and top as desired.
Round 1 :
In your 1st chain (the second from your hook) make 8 HDC. Count back 8 if you need and find your first stitch to start the next round. Crochet over the tails from the beginning to tighten the middle of your work; crochet over the tails all the way around this round and then pull them tight.
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In the first stitch only make 1 SC and then 1 HDC (this first SC is just to keep there from being such a big "jog" up in height). Working in the spiral it wont matter in the end and is the method the author uses. Now, make 2 HDC in all the rest of the stitches around for a total of 16 stitches.
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Continue to work in the spiral. If you fear losing count, move your stitch marker to the last stitch of each round so you know when you get to the end.
Round 3 :
(Make 1 HDC in next stitch, make 2 HDC in the next stitch) repeat around (24)
Round 4 :
(Make 1 HDC in next 2 stitches, make 2 HDC in the next stitch) repeat around (32)
Round 5 :
(Make 1 HDC in next 3 stitches, make 2 HDC in the next stitch) repeat around (40)
Round 6 :
(Make 1 HDC in next 4 stitches, make 2 HDC in the next stitch) repeat around (48) - after doing the last HDC make about 3-4 SC for the same reason we did at the beginning to help eliminate your "jog" down and then join your main color on this last stitch. Make the first part of the stitch in the toe color and then pull through the last part of the stitch with your new color. Tie ends in back of work to secure and then continue to crochet over the tails.
Round 7 :
Single crochet in Back Loop Only (see photo above) (48)
Rounds 8-~20 :
HDC around. See photos. (That is about 13 rows or 624 stitches if you are working in the spiral.) TIP: open the calculator on your phone and enter 624 then start subtracting as you go. Count up about 40-70 stitches and subtract from the total to keep on track.
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After all of those stitches are finished make 3-4 single crochet in the next 3-4 HDC stitches and DROP but DO NOT CUT your main color. You will come back and pick it up after you do the heel. You are now going to work in rows for a bit.
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Attach your toe/heel color when you make your last stitch from the toe – pull the new color through to finish the last stitch and then slip stitch in the next stitch. Work 21 SC across the round and slip stitch in the next stitch.
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Do NOT chain, but turn your work and skip the slip stitch and single crochet together (sctog) over the next two stitches and then work all the way across (17) until you get to the last two SC and then SCTOG those two last stitches. Repeat the bracketed sequence until you are left with only 8 SC for the heel piece.
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If you are unsure how to single crochet 2 stitches together, insert hook into the space, pull up a loop, insert hook into the next space, pull up a loop (3 loops on the hook) and pull through all 3 loops.
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Chain 1 and turn. [sctog, SC across the heel until you reach the last two stitches, sctog] repeat what is in brackets until you are left with only 8 SC. The last two rows of the heel before you break off your yarn are increase rows.
Round X (heel rows) :
Chain 1 and turn. Make 2 SC in the first stitch, SC in the next 6 stitches and then make 2 SC in the last stitch (10).
Round Y (heel rows) :
Chain 1 and turn. Make 2 SC in the first stitch, SC in the next 8 crochet and then make 2 SC in the last stitch (12). Cut your tails and move over to the other side of the heel as instructed in photos. Now you should have the heel shaping done and be ready to attach the heel color/finish.
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Attach your heel color(s) to the bottom of the heel next to where you dropped your main color yarn earlier. SC evenly around the entire heel piece — the author reached 32 SC around the heel section. Finish off that yarn and crochet over tails; no need to weave ends in this piece. Go back and pick up the MAIN color yarn that you dropped earlier.
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The next step is to crochet around the entire piece in your main color. You can choose either SC or HDC throughout — this is largely up to you. When you get to the upper corner on the heel piece, the next 3 stitches after my hook will be either sc3tog (single crochet 3 together) or hdc3tog on the upper 3 stitches on BOTH sides of the heel. This gathers them a little for shaping. The author had 53 stitches after this at one point and adjusted with decreases to reach about 48 stitches for the top rows/border.
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After completing the entire round in either SC or HDC, youll get a flat piece that you will continue to work up in the round (spiral) until the leg is the desired length. The authors example leg measured about 12 inches from the heel section to the top before adding the upper border.
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If adding a top border in another color: chain up 2 (not a stitch) and work a double crochet border. Join and chain up 2 (not a stitch) then alternate 4 front post double crochet and 4 back post double crochet around for the chosen number of rounds. This creates the ribbed post-stitch border. Chain a length of 15 at the back for a hanger if desired.
— "Every wish, one and all, waiting under the tree": Gift Bag #1 :
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Gift Sack/Bag 1: Beginner Crochet. The author used only HDC and DC and some CH stitches for the tie. For the tie the author used chains and a pompom maker. Example used 3 strands held together and N/10mm hook, finished about 16" x 16".
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One example skein was Red Heart Super Saver 8oz/225g — use three skeins for the project if planning to match the example. The start is exactly like the stocking: Chain 2 and then build a circular toe/base in HDC increasing rounds.
Round 1 :
Chain 2. In your 1st chain (the second from your hook) make 8 HDC. Crochet over the tails from the beginning to tighten the middle of your work. (Same opening as stocking.)
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In this first stitch only make 1 SC and then 1 HDC (this first SC is just to keep there from being such a big "jog" up in height). Now, make 2 HDC in all the rest of the stitches around for a total of 16 stitches.
Round 3 :
(Make 1 HDC in next stitch, make 2 HDC in the next stitch) repeat around (24)
Round 4 :
(Make 1 HDC in next 2 stitches, make 2 HDC in the next stitch) repeat around (32)
Round 5 :
(Make 1 HDC in next 3 stitches, make 2 HDC in the next stitch) repeat around (40)
Round 6 :
(Make 1 HDC in next 4 stitches, make 2 HDC in the next stitch) repeat around (48)
Round 7 :
(Make 1 HDC in next 5 stitches, make 2 HDC in the next stitch) repeat around (56)
Round 8 :
(Make 1 HDC in next 6 stitches, make 2 HDC in the next stitch) repeat around (64)
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Continue increasing in this manner for as many rounds as needed for the size of bag base desired, or proceed to work up the sides in HDC/SC once you have the base diameter. The author alternates color changes and holds three strands together in the example; adjust hook accordingly when using multiple strands.
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Work the sides in HDC or SC in the round, working even until you reach the desired height. Finish with a border of DC or a post-stitch border and add a drawstring by chaining a length and pulling through spaces. Embellish with pompoms if desired.
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That is it — finish off, weave ends, and add any embellishments (pompoms, braided drawstring, beads) to complete the gift bag.
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End of patterns in the provided pages: The booklet includes many photograph examples for each step; follow photos for visual guidance on placements and shaping steps described above.
This holiday crochet collection gives you a fun way to use your yarn stash and create festive décor and gifts. Whether you make the tall tree, the cozy stocking, or the charming gift bag, each piece is designed to be approachable and rewarding. Have fun experimenting with colors and textures and make something merry and handmade this season! 🎁🎄
