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Millie the Melon Pig Amigurumi Pattern

Millie the Melon Pig Amigurumi Pattern
4.0★ Rating
5-7 Hours Time Needed
2.3K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

🧸

Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

About This Millie the Melon Pig Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern creates Millie the Melon Pig, a whimsical amigurumi with a watermelon skirt and embroidered seed details. It includes full round-by-round instructions for the head, body, legs, arms, ears, tail and skirt. Instructions include exact color changes, placement tips for eyes, and assembly guidance with photos. Youll finish with a sweet, poseable pig about 12 inches tall using worsted weight yarn.

Millie the Melon Pig Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

The pattern uses standard amigurumi techniques worked in continuous rounds with precise stitch counts. Color and finishing notes help you reproduce the playful melon dress and facial details.

Why You'll Love This Millie the Melon Pig Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it blends simple amigurumi shaping with playful colorwork to create a unique character. I enjoy designing little garments like the ruffled watermelon skirt that add personality and charm. I love how the eye placement and embroidered seeds let you customize Millies expression and style. I also enjoy that the pattern teaches useful techniques like working in BLO and attaching decorative pieces which are handy for many future projects.

Millie the Melon Pig Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Millie the Melon Pig Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Millie the Melon Pig Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Millie the Melon Pig Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how easy it is to customize Millie by swapping yarn colors; try pastel tones for a softer look or bold neons for a playful twist.

I often make her smaller or larger by changing yarn weight and hook size — use sport weight with a smaller hook for a tiny keychain or bulky yarn for a plusher version.

I sometimes embroider freckles or a smile instead of eyelashes to give Millie a different personality — small changes to the face can have a big effect.

For a summery set, add a tiny crocheted hat or a removable bow that you can attach with a few whipstitches.

You can replace safety eyes with embroidered eyes for a fully soft toy that's safe for babies and tots.

Try adding wire to the arms if you want posable limbs; insert thin florist wire before closing the arm and secure it inside the stuffing.

I sometimes change the skirt pattern to a simple ruffle or granny row to practice different stitch textures.

Use felt or small fabric scraps for accessories like a tiny watermelon slice handbag to make Millie extra unique.

If you want seasonal variations, swap the skirt colors to match holidays — pastel for Easter, orange and browns for autumn.

I recommend experimenting with different eye sizes and positions; moving the eyes slightly higher or wider will completely change her expression.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping stitch markers during continuous spiral rounds will make counting rounds difficult and cause mis-shaped pieces; place a marker at the start of each round and move it as you work to stay on track. ✗ Not stuffing gradually leads to uneven or lumpy legs and body; stuff the legs and body as you work, adding small amounts frequently and shaping as you go. ✗ Placing safety eyes before checking spacing can result in misaligned features; count the exact holes between placements and test-fit eyes before securing the backs. ✗ Pulling yarn too tight when weaving the eye thread for a sunken look can distort the face; pull gently and check frequently, repeating passes only until you reach the desired depression. ✗ Forgetting to leave long sewing tails when fastening off makes assembly harder; always leave a long tail when F/O on parts you will sew so you can stitch parts neatly. ✗ Overstuffing before seaming causes the head or body to bulge; add stuffing progressively and sew with the piece in position to adjust final shaping.

Millie the Melon Pig Amigurumi Pattern

Create Millie, a sweet melon-themed pig amigurumi with a ruffled watermelon skirt and charming embroidered seeds. This pattern guides you step-by-step through crocheting the head, body, legs, arms, ears, tail and skirt with clear rounds and assembly photos. Youll enjoy mixing bright colors and simple shaping to make a playful handmade toy that stands about 12 inches tall. Perfect as a gift or a cheerful home decoration.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Millie the Melon Pig Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Worsted weight yarn (#4), approximately 100g main color (Light Pink suggested as main body color)
  • 02
    Color A: Dark Pink - approx 50-75g (dress top)
  • 03
    Color B: Light Pink - approx 50-75g (body contrast and trims)
  • 04
    Color C: Light Green - 50-75g (skirt)
  • 05
    Color D: Dark Green - small amount for skirt edge
  • 06
    Color E: White - small amount for skirt edge and highlights
  • 07
    Color F: Medium Pink - small amount for nose and hooves
  • 08
    Color G: Mint - small amount for final skirt attachment

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size 3.25 mm (D)
  • 02
    18 mm safety eyes (2 pieces)
  • 03
    Scissors
  • 04
    Yarn needle for sewing and embroidery
  • 05
    Stitch markers
  • 06
    Polyester fiberfill stuffing
  • 07
    Black embroidery thread (optional)
  • 08
    Pins for assembly

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— Head :

Info :

Crocheted from front of nose to back of head. Starting with Color F.

Round 1 :

Make 6 sc into a magic ring = 6

Round 2 :

Increase in each st around = 12

Round 3 :

(sc, inc) x 6 = 18

Round 4 :

3 dc in the next 2 stitches, 2 sl, 3 dc in the next 2 stitches, 12 sc = 26

Info :

Change to Color B

Round 5 :

BLO, 6 sc, dec (You will be decreasing in the 2 sl from previous round), 16 sc, dec = 24

Round 6 :

(7 sc, inc) x 3 = 27

Round 7 :

sc in each st around

Round 8 :

(8 sc, inc) x 3 = 30

Round 9 :

sc in each st around

Round 10 :

(2 sc, inc) x 6, 12 sc = 36

Round 11 :

(3 sc, inc) x 6, 12 sc = 42

Round 12 :

(4 sc, inc) x 6, 12 sc = 48

Round 13 :

(5 sc, inc) x 6, 12 sc = 54

Info :

Place eyes between rounds 11 and 12, leaving 13 holes between them. 1st eye is placed before the 2nd increase. Count 13 holes after the first eye and place the 2nd eye. If you want the sunken eye look, do not place the backs of the eyes on until round 22. TIP! You may have to adjust the eye placement depending on yarn and hook size you use.

Round 14-19 :

sc in each st around

Round 20 :

(7 sc, dec) x 6 = 48

Round 21 :

(6 sc, dec) x 6 = 42

Round 22 :

(5 sc, dec) x 6 = 36

Info :

Now for the eyes. Stuff the head well. Cut a long piece of yarn and remove the eyes. Place the needle in the hole where the first eye was and thread the needle into a hole next to the eye hole. Go back and forth between each eye hole repeating the process from the first eye. Pull slightly on the yarn after going through each hole. Do this about 3 times on each side until you reach the look you want. Follow the pictures for help. There is also a youtube video for extra help: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9XoBnTY6k70&t=55s To place the backs of the eyes you will need to remove most of the stuffing to place the washers on the eyes then re stuff it.

Round 23 :

(4 sc, dec) x 6 = 30

Round 24 :

(3 sc, dec) x 6 = 24

Round 25 :

(2 sc, dec) x 6 = 18

Round 26 :

(sc, dec) x 6 = 12

Round 27 :

dec x 6 = 6

Info :

F/O and sew the hole closed

— Legs and Body :

Info :

Starting with Legs (Make 2). Starting with Color F. Make 2 hooves.

Round 1 :

Make 6 sc into a magic ring = 6

Round 2 :

sc in each st around

Info :

Do not F/O the 2nd hoof! Continue crocheting to connect them.

Round (join) 1 :

Work a sc in the 1st hoof, 2 more sc, inc, (3 sc, inc) x 2 = 15

Round :

sc in each st around

Info :

Change to Color B

Round :

sc in each st around

Round :

(4 sc, inc) x 3 = 18

Round :

sc in each st around

Round :

(5 sc, inc) x 3 = 21

Round :

sc in each st around

Info :

(On the 2nd leg, work an additional 16 sc, this is to move the starting point)

Round (connect legs) :

Ch 3, work a sc on the 1st leg to connect them together, work 20 more sc around the 1st leg, work 3 sc on the back of the ch 3, work 21 sc on the 2nd leg, work 3 sc on the front of the ch 3 = 48

Info :

Do not F/O the 2nd leg! Continue crocheting to form the body.

Round 2 (body) :

sc in each st around

Info :

Start stuffing the legs and stuff the body as you work

Round 3 :

(7 sc, inc) x 6 = 54

Round 4 :

(8 sc, inc) x 6 = 60

Round 5-9 :

sc in each st around

Round 10 :

(8 sc, dec) x 6 = 54

Round 11 :

(7 sc, dec) x 6 = 48

Round 12 :

(6 sc, dec) x 6 = 42

Round 13-14 :

sc in each st around

Info :

Change to Color A

Round 15 :

sc in each st around

Round 16 :

BLO (5 sc, dec) x 6 = 36

Round 17-20 :

sc in each st around

Round 21 :

(4 sc, dec) x 6 = 30

Round 22-23 :

sc in each st around

Round 24 :

(3 sc, dec) x 6 = 24

Round 25 :

(2 sc, dec) x 6 = 18

Info :

F/O and leave a long tail for sewing

— Tail :

Info :

With Color B

Round :

Ch 17

Round 1 :

inc in 2nd ch from hook and across = 32

Info :

F/O and leave a long tail for sewing

— Ears :

Info :

Make 2. With Color B.

Round 1 :

Make 6 sc into a magic ring = 6

Round 2 :

sc in each st around

Round 3 :

(sc, inc) x 3 = 9

Round 4 :

(2 sc, inc) x 3 = 12

Round 5 :

sc in each st around

Round 6 :

(sc, inc) x 6 = 18

Round 7 :

(2 sc, inc) x 6 = 24

Round 8-10 :

sc in each st around

Info :

Do not stuff the ears

Round 11 :

(2 sc, dec) x 6 = 18

Round 12 :

(sc, dec) x 6 = 12

Info :

Fold the ear in half and sc the opening closed. F/O and leave a long tail for sewing

— Arms :

Info :

Make 2. Starting with Color F. Make 2 hooves.

Round 1 :

Make 6 sc into a magic ring = 6

Round 2 :

Sc in each st around

Info :

Do not F/O the 2nd hoof!

Round (join) 3 :

Work a sc in the 1st hoof to connect them together, work 11 more sc around = 12

Round 4 :

(3 sc, inc) x 3 = 15

Round 5 :

Sc in each st around

Info :

Change to Color B

Round 6 :

(3 sc, dec) x 3 = 12

Round 7 :

Sc in each st around

Round 8 :

Dec, 10 sc = 11

Round 9 :

Sc in each st around

Info :

Stop stuffing the arms

Round 10 :

Dec, 9 sc = 10

Round 11 :

sc in each st around

Round 12 :

Dec, 8 sc = 9

Round 13-17 :

sc in each st around

Info :

Fold the arm in half and sc the opening closed. F/O and leave a long tail for sewing

— Skirt :

Info :

Starting with Color C. Turn the body upside down with the back side of the pig facing you. Attach the yarn to the center stitch with a sl st on round 16 of the body.

Round 1 :

ch 4 (counts as the 1st dc), in the next st dc + ch 1. Repeat around the body. Sl st in the 3rd starting chain to join.

Round 2 :

Ch 3, dc + Ch 1 + 2 dc in same st, *skip 1st ch space, in the next ch space work 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc* Repeat from * to *, sl st in the 3rd chain to join

Round 3 :

Ch 3, dc + Ch 1 + 2 dc in same st, *skip 1st ch space, in the next ch space work 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc* Repeat from * to *, sl st in the 3rd chain to join

Info :

Change to Color D

Round 4 :

Ch 2, Work a hdc in each st around, join to top of ch 2 with a sl st

Info :

Change to Color E

Round 5 :

Repeat round 4

Info :

F/O and weave in any tails.

Info :

With Color G: Turn the body upside down and attach the yarn with a sl st in between the skirt and top. Sl st around the body in between those rounds. F/O and weave in the tail ends.

— Assembly :

Item Name (Head and Body) :

1. Cut a long strand of white yarn. Thread your needle with the strand. Insert the needle into a hole on the head. Bring the needle up to a corner on the lower eye. Bring the needle around the eye to a corner on the upper eye. Pull tightly on the strand. Repeat for the 2nd eye. This gives the highlight on the eye.

Item Name (Head and Body) :

2. Take a long strand of black yarn. Thread your needle and insert the needle into a hole on the body. Embroider some black spots for watermelon seeds on the dark pink part of the dress.

Item Name (Head and Body) :

3. Take a long strand of black embroidery thread and embroider eyelashes on the face.

Item Name (Head and Body) :

4. Pin the head to the body for extra support. You may need to add more stuffing as you sew.

Item Name (Head and Body) :

5. Sew the head onto the body.

Item Name (Ears) :

1. Pin the ears onto the head approximately between rounds 21 and 22.

Item Name (Ears) :

2. Sew the ears onto the head.

Item Name (Tail) :

1. Pin the tail onto the body right underneath the skirt.

Item Name (Tail) :

2. Sew the tail onto the body.

Item Name (Arms) :

1. Pin the arms onto the side of the body approximately between rounds 23 and 24.

Item Name (Arms) :

2. Sew the arms onto the body.

Assembly Instructions

  • Cut a long strand of white yarn and thread it through the head to create eye highlights by stitching around the lower and upper corners of each eye, repeating for both eyes.
  • Embroider small black seed spots on the dark pink dress section using a long strand of black yarn or embroidery thread, using the pictures as placement guides.
  • Pin the head to the body for stability before sewing and add extra stuffing if needed, then sew the head securely to the body.
  • Pin the ears approximately between rounds 21 and 22 of the head and sew them in place, folding each ear as instructed to create shape.
  • Pin the tail right underneath the skirt and sew firmly so it sits centered and secure for play.
  • Pin arms to the sides approximately between rounds 23 and 24 and sew them to the body, ensuring symmetrical placement and secure stitches.

Important Notes

  • 💡Do not join rounds unless stated; work in a continuous spiral and use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of each round.
  • 💡Use stitch markers to keep track of rounds, especially during increases and decreases to maintain correct stitch counts.
  • 💡Stuff gradually and evenly as you work to achieve smooth shaping; overstuffing can distort the pieces.
  • 💡Place safety eyes between referenced rounds and test placement before securing the backs; you may need to remove stuffing to attach washers.
  • 💡Weave in ends and leave long tails when F/O for sewing pieces together to make assembly easier.

This Millie the Melon Pig pattern brings a playful splash of color to your crochet collection with a ruffled watermelon skirt and sweet embroidered details. I designed Millie to be cheerful, giftable, and fun to customize, so you can make her your own in just a few creative hours. Happy crocheting and enjoy every stitch! 🧶✨

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we answer.

FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The finished amigurumi measures approximately 12 inches from foot to top of head when using worsted weight yarn and a 3.25 mm hook.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can use different yarn weights, but the final size will change. Use an appropriate hook for your chosen yarn and adjust eye and nose placement accordingly.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate and assumes familiarity with magic ring, single crochet, increases, decreases, working in BLO, and basic seaming and embroidery.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crocheters finish this project in about 5-7 hours, depending on experience and how much time you spend on assembly and embroidery.

What size safety eyes should I use?

This pattern uses 18 mm safety eyes; you can use other sizes but you may need to adjust placement and anchoring technique.