What size will the finished piece be?

The finished budgerigar measures approximately 9.5 x 13.5 cm (3.7 x 5.3 inch), though final size may vary depending on yarn and hook tension.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

You can use different yarn weights, but the final size and look will change; choose an appropriate hook for the yarn and expect to adjust wire lengths and stuffing.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate because it includes small-detail work, wired feathers, shaping, and assembly; basic crochet experience and familiarity with increases and decreases are recommended.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crocheters finish this pattern in 5-7 hours, though time varies with experience, detail work for feathers, and assembly steps.

Budgerigar Amigurumi Pattern

Switch Things Up

I love to customize this pattern by changing yarn colors to create many varieties of budgerigars; I often try pastel palettes for a soft look or vibrant shades for a lively display.

I sometimes use a slightly thicker thread and a larger hook to make a chunkier, more cuddly bird; conversely, thinner thread and a smaller hook yield delicate minis ideal for keychains.

I recommend experimenting with different wire gauges for the feathers and tail; 0.5 mm wire gives great shape while thicker wire will hold more dramatic poses.

I often replace glued beads with embroidered eyes for a softer, safer toy for children; try black embroidery floss and a few surface stitches to create eyes that read well from a distance.

To vary posture, I alter the leg length and the angle of the toes when inserting the frame so some birds look perched and others look more upright.

I like to add tiny accessories like a crocheted scarf or miniature branch perch; these small props personalize the finished piece and make great gift touches.

For a more realistic finish, I switch bobbin thread color when crocheting the muzzle and cheeks so the speckled effect of natural budgerigars is captured.

I also experiment with lightly starching or stiffening the feather pieces to hold shape for display models; boiled sugar or PVA glue solutions both work depending on desired stiffness.

If you want a poseable toy, add a bit more wire to the wing bases so they can be re-shaped, but make sure ends are carefully insulated with tape or a band-aid so they dont snag the yarn.

I always take notes on changes I make (hook size, wire lengths, color swaps) so I can replicate a preferred variant later; keeping a small project notebook really helps when customizing multiple birds.

Budgerigar Amigurumi Pattern

Make a charming, detailed budgerigar amigurumi using fine Etamin yarn and a tiny hook. This pattern guides you step-by-step through wire-framed legs, shaped wings and tail feathers, and precise facial details. Youll learn winding wire techniques for feathers and how to assemble the bird for a professional finish. Perfect for crafters who love small, delicate amigurumi projects.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Budgerigar Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

01
YarnArt Etamin: 100% Acrylic, 180 m in 30 g (196 yds in 1.06 oz) - light blue-425, blue-462, beige-448, white-421, grey-449 for the blue budgerigar, yellow-461, green-438, blue-462, beige-448 for the green budgerigar
02
Consumption: main color - 6 g, additional colors - 3 g each approximately; small amounts (a few grams) for details like beak, cere, forehead
03
Fine bobbin thread in navy blue or olive green for thin detail winding
04
Leftover yarn scraps for stuffing holes and small details

— Tools Required

01
Steel crochet hook size 1.25 mm (#8 US) for Etamin
02
Fine navy blue / olive green bobbin thread
03
Fiberfill for stuffing
04
A wooden skewer or a toothpick with a broken tip for stuffing
05
Tapestry needle
06
Scissors
07
Round pliers and wire cutters
08
Wire for needlework: steel wire 0.5 mm diameter or copper wire 1 mm thick for feet and bead wire 0.5 mm thick for feather frames
09
Textile band-aid (to make stoppers for frame wires)
10
5 mm black half round beads - 2 PCS (for eyes)
11
Moment Crystal Glue
12
PVA Glue
13
Sequins or beads for spots 2 mm diameter - 6 PCS (or embroider spots with marker)
14
Thread for tightening the tail

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— Leg - make two :

Info :

We make leg with toes on a wire frame. Cut 4 pieces of wire 8 cm (3 inch) long. On the tip of the wire, wind the yarn in a single layer 16 mm (0,6 inch) long, moisten it with PVA glue and fix the tip with a clip. Let it dry.

Info :

We don't cut the thread from the fourth toe. Put your toes together and continue to wrap, forming a leg. The winding length is 3 cm (1,2 inch). It can also be impregnated with PVA glue.

Info :

We make the limiter with a pair of turns with a textile band-aid at a height of 2 cm (0,8 inch) from the toes. The leg is ready. Repeat for the second leg.

Round 1 :

6 sc in MC, we close the ring, but do not tighten it! We direct the tail from the ring inward, but do not crochet or shorten.

Round 2-3 :

6 sc

Round 4 :

(inc, 2 sc) * 2 = 8, to close the work invisibly without skipping the loop = 9 (cheat sheet)

Info :

We insert the wire foot into the amigurumi circle, but do not tighten it. Put the foot aside. Crochet the second same foot.

— Head-body :

Row 1 :

ch 5, 3 sc, inc, 3 sc on the other side of the chain = 8

Row 2 :

(inc, 2 sc, inc) * 2 = 12

Row 3 :

(sc, inc) * 6 = 18

Row 4 :

(2 sc, inc) * 6 = 24

Row 5 :

(3 sc, inc) * 6 = 30

Info :

Check that the marking thread runs exactly in the center of the front. It is convenient to fold the figure in half along the initial chain - then the displacement is clearly visible. If it necessary, we crochet loops offset.

Row 6-8 :

30 sc

Row 9 :

(inc, 14 sc) * 2 = 32 + LO

Row 10 :

32 sc

Info :

Change the thread to green / blue.

Row 11 :

inc, 31 sc = 33

Row 12 :

inc, 32 sc = 34

Row 13 :

(inc, 16 sc) * 2 = 36 + LO

Row 14 :

(inc, 17 sc) * 2 = 38

Row 15 :

inc, 18 sc, inc, 17 sc, inc = 41

Row 16 :

(inc, 19 sc) * 2, inc = 44

Row 17 :

44 sc

Row 18 :

inc, 42 sc, inc = 46 + LO

Row 19-21 :

46 sc

Row 22 :

inc, 44 sc, inc = 48

Row 23-27 :

48 sc + LO

Row 28 :

dec, 46 sc = 47

Row 29 :

dec, 45 sc = 46

Row 30 :

dec, 44 sc = 45

Row 31 :

dec, 41 sc, dec = 43

Row 32 :

3 sc, dec, 33 sc, dec, 3 sc = 41

Row 33 :

7 sc, dec, 23 sc, dec, 7 sc = 39

Info :

Partially fill the toy with fiberfill (photo 1).

Row 34 :

dec, sc, 5 join sc with thigh, 2 sc, dec, 15 sc, dec, 2 sc, 5 join sc with thigh, sc, dec = 32 (photo 2-3, scheme). Attention! The number of loops in a row does not match the arithmetic operations, since we crocheted 5 loops per thigh, and left 4 loops each.

Info :

Since the bird's body is partially stuffed and almost finished, we can determine the length of the legs in accordance with the proportions of the resulting figure (it depends heavily on the chosen yarn and knitting density). Measure the desired length of the leg and above this point, wrap a textile band-aid limiter in several layers. The thickness of the stopper should allow you to push it deep into the leg. Now you can pull the end of the thread and pull the amigurumi circle completely.

Info :

Twist the frame wires together, isolate the ends with a textile band-aid. Insert the frame into the bird's body. Carefully place the fiberfill so that the frame is not palpable. Press the legs to the chest so that they do not interfere with continuing crocheting.

Row 35 :

dec, 4 sc on the leg, 20 sc on the body, 4 sc on the leg, dec = 30

Row 36 :

7 sc, dec, 12 sc, dec, 7 sc = 28

Row 37 :

2 sc, dec, 20 sc, dec, 2 sc = 26

Row 38 :

5 sc, dec, 12 sc, dec, 5 sc = 24

Row 39 :

3 sc, dec, 14 sc, dec, 3 sc = 22

Row 40 :

sc, dec, 16 sc, dec, sc = 20

Row 41 :

sc, dec, sc, dec, 8 sc, dec, sc, dec, sc = 16

Info :

Fill the body with fiberfill.

Row 42 :

thru.dec, dec, 8 sc, dec, thru.dec = 12

Row 43 :

thru.dec, dec, 4 sc, dec, thru.dec = 8, fasten off, leaving a long thread for sewing the tail.

Info :

Fill the body with fiberfill finally. Bend the legs to a natural position. Bend toes - 2 forward and 2 back. Give the toes a curved shape with round pliers (photo 1). Trim and file nails to prevent scratching.

— Wings :

Info :

Crochet yellow/white yarn with the addition of olive/dark blue fine bobbin thread.

Row 1 :

ch 6, inc, 3 sc, 3 sc in 1, 4 sc, sl st, ch, turn = 12 (photo 2)

Row 2 :

inc, 5 sc, inc, ch, turn = 9

Row 3 :

inc, 7 sc, inc, ch, turn = 11

Row 4 :

inc, 4 sc, 2 hdc, inc hdc, 2 dc, inc dc, turn = 14 (photo 3)

Row 5 :

inc dc, 2 dc, inc hdc, 2 hdc, 7 sc, 3 sc in 1, 11 sc, 2 sc, 2 sc, continue crocheting in the same direction.

Row 6 :

inc dc, 2 dc, inc hdc, 7 hdc, inc hdc, 3 hdc, sc, sl st, fasten off (photo 4).

Info :

Cut the thread, leaving a tail for sewing. Crochet the second same wing.

— Feathers :

Info :

Wing feathers should be carefully starched or crocheted with carcass wire. I prefer to use 0.5 mm thick copper wire in the yarn winding. Don't be scared! It is easy to wind thin wire. Rolling the tip of the wire between the thumb and forefinger. In order for the winding to be of high quality, the wire must be pulled tighter than the yarn for winding. If the yarn is pulled tighter than the wire, then the effect is obtained, as in photo 1.

Info :

We start winding a centimeter from the edge of the wire and wind it to the edge. We bend the end of the wire to fix the yarn. Now we wind, scrolling the wire with the winding between the fingers. If the coils are not very tight, they can be moved. Avoid sagging - the coils should cover the wire in one layer only!

Info :

Attach the green/blue yarn to the sharp corner of the wing along the long side. We crochet across the crocheting, at the end of the feather attaching it to the wing - we consider the wing to be the basis of crocheting.

Feather 1 :

ch 3, (photo 1) add wrapped wire, sc in the bend of the wire (photo 2), 3 sc, sc in the same loop where the chain began, 2 sc on the base, turn.

Feather 2 :

(photo 3), skip 2, 3 sc, ch 3 (photo 4), sc in the band of the wire, 6 sc, sc in the same loop where the feather began, sc on the base (photo 5), turn.

Feather 3 :

skip 1, 7 sc, ch 3, sc in the band of the wire, 10 sc, sc in the same loop where the feather began, 5 sc on the base (photo 6), turn.

Feather 4 :

skip 1, 15 sc, 6 ch (photo 1), sc in the band of the wire, 21 sc, sc in the same loop where the feather began, 3 sc on the base, sl st (photo 2), to close the work invisibly without skipping the loop (photo 3).

Info :

Repeat for the second wing in the same way, without mirroring anything (photo 4). The difference in the turning rows will not be noticeable. And the edges of the base will be sewn to the body.

— Tail :

Info :

I also lay a frame wire with a winding in the tail so that I do not have to starch.

Feather 1 :

ch 25, 23 sc (photo 1-2), 3 sc in 1, 23 sc.

Feather 2 :

2 sc in the band of the wire, then we crochet FLO: 15 sc, sc in the wire, turn, 15 sc, for both edges of the loop: inc.

Feather 3 :

inc, then we crochet FLO: 15 sc, sc in the wire, turn, 15 sc, sc, sl st. Fasten the thread, hide the end of the thread inside the single crochets.

Info :

Bend the base of the tail with a corner, insert the tail into the remaining hole on the body. Sew on the tail with the end of the yarn left on the body.

— Forehead & cheeks :

Info :

Crochet yellow/white yarn in one thread.

Row 1 :

ch 6, 5 sc, ch, turn = 5

Row 2 :

inc, 3 sc, inc, ch, turn = 7

Row 3 :

inc, 5 sc, inc, ch, turn = 9

Row 4-5 :

9 sc, ch, turn

Row 6 :

dec, 5 sc, dec, ch, turn = 7

Row 7 :

dec, 3 sc, dec, ch, turn = 5

Row 8 :

dec, sc, dec = 3

Info :

Crochet in a circle with sc, make increase so that the muzzle will be smooth, sl st, ch (photo 1). Row 9: 3 sc, ch, turn = 3. Row 10: inc, sc, inc, ch, turn = 5. Row 11: (dc, 5 htr, dc) in 1, 3 sc, (dc, 5 htr, dc), sl st. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing (photo 2).

— Cere :

Info :

Crochet in one thread in blue or brown.

Round :

Ch 3, 4 sc in 1, 4 sc in 1, sl st (photo 3). Cut the thread, leaving the tip for sewing.

— Beak :

Info :

We crochet in a spiral around the chain by beige yarn.

Row 1 :

ch 4, 2 sc, inc, 2 sc = 6 (photo 4)

Row 2 :

dec, 4 sc = 5

Row 3 :

dec, 3 sc = 4, fill with leftover yarn. Pull the hole by the front loops, leaving a long tail for sewing.

— Assembly :

Info :

1) We sew the forehead behind both edges of the loops. The cheeks must cover the color change step, and the edge of the forehead is located in the middle of the initial chain of the parrot's head.

Info :

2) We sew the beak with invisible stitches.

Info :

3) We sew the cere on both edges of the loops, bending the upper edge so that the holes of the initial chain form the nostrils.

Info :

4) Glue the eyes under the forehead. Please note: the eyes of the birds are located almost on the sides of the head. In animals, the eyes are located in front of the head.

Info :

5) We embroider black spots on the cheeks with threads, beads or sequins, we embroider a blue stroke, as on photo.

Info :

6) Give the toes a slightly curved shape. Bend the tips of the claws with round pliers at an angle of 90 degrees. File the claws so that they do not scratch.

Info :

7) Take a picture of toy and don't forget to share the photo on social networks with the author's name: «made by Svetlana Kononenko's MK / HOBBY-MK» ☺.

Assembly Instructions

Sew the forehead behind both edges of the loops so the cheeks cover the color change; position the forehead edge in the middle of the initial chain of the head.
Sew the beak with invisible stitches and secure tightly, leaving the long tail for sewing the beak into the muzzle.
Sew the cere on both edges of the loops, bending the upper edge so the initial chain holes form the nostrils; glue or sew the small cere piece in place.
Glue the eyes under the forehead, placing them almost on the sides of the head to achieve a natural budgerigar look.
Embroider or attach black spots on the cheeks with thread, beads or sequins, and add the blue cheek stroke as shown in the reference photo.

Important Notes

💡Use stitch markers to keep track of your rounds and to mark the centre front; move the marker each round to avoid misalignment.
💡Stuff the body while crocheting and not only at the end; stuff gradually so the frame is not felt through the stuffing and proportions stay correct.
💡Work with a small hook to keep stitches tight and avoid holes; if you see tiny holes, use an even smaller hook for denser fabric.
💡Wind wire for feathers tightly and cover it in a single layer of coils; loose winding will cause sagging and poor feather shape.

This Budgerigar amigurumi pattern guides you from tiny toes to wired feathers, giving you a realistic, poseable bird. I hope it sparks joy and becomes a treasured handmade piece in your home. Share your finished budgie with pride and happy crocheting! 🧶✨

Budgerigar Amigurumi Pattern

Intermediate Level

Weekend Treat

Cute Companion

About This Budgerigar Amigurumi Pattern

Why You'll Love This Budgerigar Amigurumi Pattern

Switch Things Up

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

Budgerigar Amigurumi Pattern

Materials Needed for Budgerigar Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

— Tools Required

Progress Tracker

— Leg - make two :

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Round 1 :

Round 2-3 :

Round 4 :

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— Head-body :

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— Wings :

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— Feathers :

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Feather 1 :

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